mimi 


DUKE 

UNIVERSITY 


LIBRARY 


4j;a ■[ 


m&m 


mWmm 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/guidebooktosanfr01hitt 


BANCROFT’S 

MAP  OF  THE  DENSELY  SETTLED  PORTION  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO 
WITH  STREET  RAILROADS 
Scale  an  inch  and  a quarter  to  a mile 


California 


references: 


1 Palace  Hotel 

2 Baldwin  Hotel 

3 Occidental  Hotel 

4 Lick  House 

5 Grand  Hotel 

6 Ferry  Lauding 

7 City  Hall 


8 Old  City  Hall 

9 Main  Post  Office 

10  Mint 

11  Telegraph  Hill 

12  Nob  Hill 

13  S.  P.  R.  R.  Station 

14  History  Building 


A 


Guide  Book  to  San  Francisco 


BY 

JOHN  S.  HITTELL 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

THE  BANCROFT  COMPANY 

History  Building , 72/  Market  St. 
iSSS 


Entered  according  to  an  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1888 
By  THE  BANCROFT  COMPANY 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington 


CU7.  RkH 

tt£7£Q. 


PREFACE 


San  Francisco  has  so  many  interesting  and  peculiar 
features  in  her  population,  in  her  manufactures,  in  her 
commerce,  in  her  architecture,  great  accumulation  of  wealth 
and  development  of  luxury,  in  her  site  and  surroundings, 
and  in  her  history,  that  the  stranger  here  needs  a guide 
book  to  assist  him  in  finding  and  understanding  them.  To 
supply  that  want,  this  work  is  prepared.  The  newcomer 
should  look  through  it  as  a preparation  for  his  walks  and 
drives,  so  that  he  may  know  where  to  look  for  information 
when  he  has  occasion  for  special  inquiry. 

The  small  map  opposite  the  title  page,  engraved  specially 
for  this  guide,  is  the  best  one  ever  published  for  the  general 
use  of  tourists  and  strangers.  Though  large  enough  to  show 
nearly  all  the  notable  points  in  the  city,  all  the  business 
streets,  and  the  most  populous  residence  districts,  it  is  so 
small  that  it  occupies  only  a single  page.  At  the  back  of 
the  book  will  be  found  a map  of  Chinatown,  a folding  map 
of  the  city,  and  also  maps  of  the  country  districts  north  and 
south  of  San  Francisco.  Those  who  wish  for  a map  show- 
ing the  whole  area  of  the  city  should  inquire  for  Bancroft’s 
Pocket  Map,  which  upon  unfolding  measures  24  x 30  inches. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

City  Sights 5 

Suburban  Sights 7 

Finding  your  Way 8 

Ferries  and  Trains 9 

Street-car  Lines 1C 

The  City. . 13 

The  City’s  Origin 13 

Local  History 14 

Site 16 

Telegraph  Hill 17 

San  Francisco  by  Night, 18 

Surrounding  Scenery 19 

Trees  and  Shrubbery 21 

A Great  Seaport 23 

A Pleasure  Resort 24 

The  Streets ..24 

Architecture ......25 

Notable  Buildings 26 

Hotels  and  Boarding-houses 27 

Theatres  and  Libraries 27 

Churches,  Residences,  etc 28 

Mint 28 

New  City  Hall .....28 

Hotels .*.....29 

Safe  Deposit 29 

Stock  Exchange 29 


PAGE 


Nob  Hill 30 

Business  Houses 31 

Works  of  Art ...34 

Churches 36 

Clubs  and  Libraries 37 

Drives 37 

Picnic  Grounds 39 

Golden  Gate  Park 39 

Presidio  Reservation 4o 

Point  San  Josd 41 

Cliff  House 41 

Woodward’s  Garden.. 42 

Cemeteries 42 

Chinatown 44 

Joss  Houses 44 

Sunday  in  Chinatown 46 

Chinese  Holidays 47 

Funerals 48 

Chinese  Theatres 48 

Merchants 49 

Restaurants..... 50 

Chinese  Missions 50 

Guides  and  Shops 50 

The  Weather 51 

Cabs 52 

Distances  and  Fares 52 


SAX  FPiAXCISCO. 


City  Sights.  — When  an  intelligent  traveler  arrives  in  a 
strange  place,  especially  one  so  noted  for  numerous  •wonders  as 
is  San  Francisco,  he  wants  to  know  what  things  in  it  are  most 
worthy  of  his  attention.  To  supply  that  want  for  our  city,  a 
brief  list  is  here  submitted.  Many  of  these  sights  are  mentioned 
again  or  described  more  fully  in  other  sections,  to  which  the 
reader  should  refer.  In  speaking  of  the  time  required  to  walk, 
20  minutes  is  allowed  for  a mile  on  level  ground. 

The  name  of  Chinatown  is  given  to  the  district  occupied  al- 
most exclusively  by  the  Chinamen.  The  most  interesting  things 
to  be  seen  there  are  their  men,  women,  and  children,  their  shops, 
joss-houses,  and  theaters.  In  the  provision  shops  may  be  seen 
ducks  split  open  and  boiled  in  oil,  chickens  boiled  in  oil,  strange 
imported  vegetables,  including  Hawaiian  taro  and  Chinese  yams, 
etc.  Ladies  unaccompanied  by  gentlemen  can  venture  into  China- 
town in  the  daytime  with  entire  safety,  and  in  the  evening  are 
in  as  little  danger  of  insult  as  in  some  streets  of  the  city  occupied 
exclusively  by  white  inhabitants.  The  joss-houses  are  all  up- 
stairs, and  ladies  visiting  them  should  have  gentlemen  escorts. 

The  Cliff  House,  reached  by  the  Haight  Street  cars  or  by  the 
cars  of  the  California  Street  and  Cliff  line.  The  view  of  the  Cliff 
House  includes  that  of  the  beach,  with  its  surf  and  the  Seal 
Hocks  covered  with  sea-lions.  The  Cliff  road  gives  most  roman- 
tic views  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

Sutro  Heights,  an  ornamental  garden  (area,  14  acres)  with 
beautiful  walks,  shrubbery,  casts  of  noted  pieces  of  statuary, 
and  a green-house,  on  the  hill  100  yards  east  of  the  Cliff  House. 
The  highest  point  is  190  feet  above  the  sea,  and  commands  ex- 
tensive views  of  the  ocean  and  Golden  Gate.  This  park  is 
thrown  open  to  the  public  by  its  proprietor,  Adolph  Sutro,  who 
has  expressed  his  intention  to  give  it  to  the  city.  Admission  is 
by  gratuitous  cards  obtainable  at  the  Cliff  House  and  at  the  prin- 
cipal hotels  (each  supplying  its  guests),  except  on  Wednesday 
and  Saturday  afternoons  from  2 to  4 o’clock,  when  people  on 
horseback  and  in  carriages  are  admitted  without  cards.  Sutro 
Heights  are  the  only  private  grounds  in  the  city  thrown  open 
gratuitously  to  the  public.  Strangers  are  not  admitted  for  the 


6 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


purpose  of  sight-seeing  into  any  of  the  palatial  residences.  The 
walk  to  Sutro  Heights  requires  about  10  minutes  from  the  car 
lines  terminating  at  or  near  the  Cliff  House. 

Hob  Hill,  — that  is,  California  Street  from  Powell  to  Leaven- 
worth, — with  the  palatial  residences  of  Stanford,  Crocker,  Hop- 
kins, and  Colton.  The  dwellings  of  Lloyd  Tevis  and  J.  B. 
Haggin,  other  millionaires,  are  on  Taylor  Street  near  W ashington. 
The  ride  over  the  California  Street  cable  line,  to  a person  who 
has  never  gone  over  steep  hills  in  a street-car,  is  a sensation. 
The  views  by  day  and  night  in  a clear  atmosphere  are  grand. 
Y ery  beautiful  views  can  also  be  obtained  on  the  lines  of  the 
Union  Street  and  Jackson  Street  cars,  and  indeed  on  many  of 
the  other  car  lines  in  tire  city. 

The  Golden  Gate  Park,  with  its  walks,  drives,  conservatory, 
and  Saturday -afternoon  concert.  Walk  to  conservatory  5 or 
10  minutes  from  Park  stations  of  the  Geary,  Hayes,  McAllister, 
Haight,  and  Jackson  Street  car  lines. 

The  Buena  Vista  or  Hill  Park,  reached  by  a winding  road  be- 
ginning at  the  corner  of  Baker  and  McAllister  Streets,  by  walk 
or  drive  requires  10  minutes.  The  summit,  570  feet  high,  com- 
mands extensive  and  beautiful  views. 

The  Presidio,  a military  reservation,  with  a garrison,  officers’ 
quarters,  fort  commanding  the  narrowest  point  of  the  Golden 
Gate,  and  extensive  grounds  laid  out  with  walks,  drives,  and 
ornamental  shrubbery.  Access  by  the  Union  Street,  Jackson 
Street,  or  California  Street  cars,  the  U nion  Street  line  having  the 
least  walking.  Walk  from  terminus  of  Union  Street  line,  5 
minutes;  from  Central  Avenue  and  California  or  Jackson  Street, 
about  15  minutes. 

Black  Point,  or  Point  San  Jos6,  a military  reservation,  reached 
by  Union  Street  cars.  Walk  from  Union  and  Laguna  Streets, 
10  minutes. 

The  Laurel  Hill  (frequently  called  Lone  Mountain)  Cemetery, 
access  by  Geary,  Sutter,  California,  or  Jackson  Street  cars.  Walk 
from  Central  Avenue  and  California,  Sutter,  or  Geary  Street, 
3 minutes.  The  Calvary  and  Odd  Fellows’  Cemeteries,  access  by 
Geary  Street  cars.  The  Masonic  Cemetery,  access  by  McAllister 
Street  cars.  The  Calvary  (Catholic)  Cemetery,  5 minutes  from 
Geary  and  Alemany  Avenue.  The  Odd  Fellows’  Cemetery,  2 
minutes  from  cars  on  Point  Lobos  Avenue.  The  Masonic  Ceme- 
tery, 3 minutes  from  the  McAllister  Street  car  line,  near  the  car- 
house. 

The  old  adobe  church  of  the  Mission  of  San  Francisco  and  its 
cemetery,  and  the  adobe  buildings  in  the  vicinity.  Walk  from 
Valencia  and  Sixteenth  Streets,  10  minutes. 

The  Stock  Exchange,  on  Pine  Street  below  Montgomery. 

The  Laguna  Honda  Reservoir,  20  minutes  walk  from  the 
Park  and  Ocean  railroad  at  Third  Avenue.  Twenty  minutes 
more  takes  you  to  the  summit  of  the  Mission  Peak  road,  600 
feet  high,  overlooking  the  city  and  bay.  About  20  minutes 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


more  to  tlie  summit  of  the  Mission  Peaks,  925  feet  high,  with 
extensive  view  of  ocean,  bay,  and  city.  The  Mission  Peaks  can 
be  reached  in  about  30  minutes  from  the  highest  point  on  the 
Castro  Street  car  line. 

Telegraph  Hill,  overlooking  the  bay,  15  minutes  from  the  car 
at  Stockton  and  Green. 

The  water-front,  from  Powell  to  Third  Street,  with  its  wharves 
for  discharging  grain,  lumber,  coal,  hay,  brick,  fire-wood,  vege- 
tables, an  hour  and  a quarter. 

Persons  passing  the  office  of  the  Selby  Smelting  and  Lead 
Company,  at  416  Montgomery  Street,  can  look  in  through  the 
glass  doors  and  see  piles  of  silver  bars  or  bricks,  each  about 
15  inches  long  and  6 inches  square,  weighing  80  or  100 
pounds,  and  worth  $750  or  $800.  They  are  nearly  pure  silver, 
and  every  bar  is  marked  with  its  weight  and  fineness,  that  is, 
percentage  of  pure  silver.  Most  of  this  metal  is  shipped  to 
China  or  India,  and  some  of  it  is  used  by  the  silversmiths  of 
California.  The  refinery  of  the  company  is  at  Port  Vallejo. 

The  machinery  of  a cable  road,  most  conveniently  seen  at  the 
corner  of  Mason  and  Washington,  where  visitors  are  welcome  in 
the  machine-house  of  the  Jackson,  Washington,  and  Powell  Street 
cable  roads. 

Various  drives,  mentioned  elsewhere. 

The  wharf  of  the  Italian  fishermen  at  the  foot  of  Union  Street. 
Most  interesting  on  Sunday  afternoon  when  most  of  the  boats 
are  in  the  dock  and  the  fishermen  are  preparing  to  go  out. 

The  markets,  with  their  display  of  fruit  and  vegetables,  on 
California  Street  below  Kearny,  and  Sutter,  corner  of  Grant 
Avenue. 

The  Mint,  with  the  process  of  refining  and  coinage,  on  the 
corner  of  Fifth  and  Mission  Streets. 

The  Stone  Dry  Dock,  450  feet  long  and  31  feet  deep  at  Hunter’s 
Point,  access  by  Fourth  omnibuses  from  the  corner  of  Fourth 
and  Townsend  Streets  to  Railroad  Avenue  in  South  San  Fran- 
cisco, whence  there  is  a walk  of  20  minutes. 

The  Rolling  Mill  at  Potrero  Point,  foot  of  Shasta  Street,  with 
walk  of  10  minutes  from  cars  on  Kentucky  Street. 

The  Mineralogical  Museum  of  the  State  Mining  Bureau  at 
24  Fourth  Street. 

Woodward’s  Gardens,  especially  its  aquarium;  the  panoramas, 
and  other  works  of  art. 

Suburban  Sights.  — Among  the  suburban  sights  perhaps  the 
first  place  belongs  to  Oakland,  a city  of  50,000  inhabitants,  cov- 
ering a large  area,  with  spacious  and  well-cultivated  grounds 
about  its  handsome  residences.  It  has  many  of  the  large  and 
old  evergreen  oaks  which  formerly  covered  much  of  its  area.  Its 
relation  to  San  Francisco  is  like  that  of  Brooklyn  to  New  York. 
Some  of  the  most  luxurious  homes  in  Oakland  are  near  the 
western  shore  of  Lake  Merritt. 

The  extensive  grounds  of  the  State  University  at  Berkeley 


8 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


have  handsome  lawns,  trees,  and  buildings,  besides  commanding, 
from  their  elevation  of  300  feet  above  the  sea  and  their  position 
opposite  the  Golden  Gate,  a magnificent  view  over  the  bay.  The 
agricultural  department  of  the  University  cultivates,  for  gratu- 
itous distribution,  a great  number  of  useful  plants,  and  has  fine 
specimens  of  the  camphor  tree  and  of  various  bamboos.  The 
University  grounds  can  be  reached  from  the  station  of  the  steam 
train  in  a walk  of  15  minutes,  or  from  the  terminus  of  the  Oak- 
land street-car  line  in  5 minutes. 

Just  back  of  the  University  grounds  at  Berkeley  is  Strawberry 
Canyon,  a romantic  place  for  walks  and  picnics.  Distant  from 
the  car  stations  about  20  minutes.  At  the  head  of  the  canyon 
and  not  two  miles  from  the  Berkeley  station,  is  Grizzly  Peak, 
1,742  feet  high,  commanding  an  extensive  view. 

Near  Berkeley  and  south  of  it  is  the  State  Asylum  for  the 
Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind,  with  large  buildings  and  well-kept 
grounds.  From  Berkeley  station  a walk  of  15  minutes. 

The  Oakland  Cemetery,  reached  by  street-car  from  Oakland, 
has  interesting  monuments,  and  pleasant  walks  and  drives. 

A mile  southeastward  from  the  Oakland  Cemetery,  and  ac- 
cessible by  horse-cars,  is  Piedmont,  which  has  beautiful  scenery 
and  interesting  views  of  the  bay.  The  Piedmont  garden,  to 
which  a dime  admission  is  charged,  is  a favorite  place  for  picnics. 

East  of  Piedmont  is  Hayes  Canyon,  with  a romantic  road  about 
five  miles  long  winding  round  from  the  Oakland  cemetery  to  East 
Oakland.  From  this  road,  branch  roads  lead  up  to  Moraga  Pass, 
1,400  feet  high,  and  three  miles  away;  and  to  Redwood  Peak, 
1,639  feet  high,  and  two  mile3  distant. 

The  hills  east  of  Berkeley,  Oakland,  Piedmont,  Fruitvale,  and 
Mills  Seminary  abound  with  interesting  walks  and  drives. 

Sausalito,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and  40  min- 
utes from  the  city,  has  many  handsome  homes  almost  hidden 
among  their  trees  and  shrubbery,  and  interesting  walks  to  Wild- 
wood Glen,  one  mile  from  the  landing,  and  to  Lime  Point,  two 
miles  from  the  landing.  Sausalito  has  the  houses  of  the  San 
Francisco  Yacht  clubs. 

The  laurel  trees  at  Sausalito  and  Berkeley  deserve  attention. 

Finding  Your  Way.  — For  the  purpose  of  finding  your  way 
about  the  city,  it  is  important  to  have  a small  map  to  which  you 
can  conveniently  refer,  and  to  get  a good  idea  of  the  manner  in 
which  the  numbers  run  in  the  streets.  The  streets  ending  in 
Market  are  numbered  from  that  street,  with  the  odd  numbers  on 
the  left,  and  even  on  the  right,  each  block  beginning  with  an 
even  100.  Thus  number  600  Kearny  Street,  or  000  Geary  Street, 
is  six  blocks  from  Market,  on  the  right  hand  looking  from  Mar- 
ket. Streets  running  east  and  west,  ending  on  the  water-front, 
begin  their  numbering  on  the  water-front.  If  your  map  does  not 
show  the  street,  or  if  the  street  is  not  marked  on  the  map,  look 
in  the  City  Directory,  to  be  found  in  all  the  hotels  and  prominent 
business  houses,  and  there  you  will  find  a chapter  called  the 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


9 


“Street  Guide,”  with  directions  to  find  every  street,  and  a table 
showing  what  numbers  each  street  has  on  every  block.  The 
street-cars  furnish  convenient  access  to  nearly  every  place  in  the 
city. 

The  streets  running  north  and  south,  north  of  Market,  begin- 
ning at  the  water-front  and  going  westward  in  regular  order,  are 
East,  Drumm,  Davis,  Front,  Battery,  Sansome,  Montgomery, 
Kearny,  Dupont,  Stockton,  Powell,  Mason,  Taylor,  Jones,  Leav- 
enworth, Hyde,  Larkin,  Polk,  Van  Hess,  Franklin,  Gough,  Oc- 
tavia,  Laguna,  Buchanan,  Webster,  Fillmore,  Steiner,  Pierce, 
Scott,  Devisadero,  Broderick,  Baker,  Lyon,  Cemetery  (called  also 
Central  Avenue),  Walnut,  Laurel,  Locust,  Spruce,  and  Cherry 
streets;  and  then  the  avenues,  — First,  Second,  Third,  and  so  on, 
to  Forty-ninth,  which  last  is  at  the  beach  near  the  Cliff  House. 

The  streets  running  east  and  west,  north  of  Market  Street, 
commencing  at  Ridley  and  going  north,  are  Kate,  Waller,  Haight, 
Page,  Oak,  Fell,  Hayes,  Grove,  Fulton,  McAllister,  Tyler,  Turk, 
Eddy,  Ellis,  O’Farrell,  Geary,  Post,  Sutter,  Bush,  Pine,  Califor- 
nia, Sacramento,  Clay,  Washington,  Jackson,  Pacific,  Broadway, 
Vallejo,  Green,  Union,  Filbert,  Greenwich,  Lombard,  Chestnut, 
Francisco,  Bay,  North  Point,  Beach,  Jefferson,  Tonquin,  and 
Lewis.  Tyler  is  officially  Golden  Gate  Avenue. 

The  wide  streets  south  of  and  parallel  with  Market,  as  we  go 
from  Market,  are  Mission,  Howard,  Folsom,  Harrison,  Bryant, 
Brannan,  and  Townsend.  Among  the  narrow  streets  parallel 
with  these  are  Stevenson  and  Jessie  between  Market  and  Mis- 
sion; Minna  and  Natoma  between  Mission  and  Howard;  and  Te- 
hama and  Clementina  between  Howard  and  Folsom. 

The  streets  at  right  angles  to  Market,  beginning  at  the  water- 
front, are  East,  Steuart,  Spear,  Main,  Beale,  Fremont,  First,  Sec- 
ond, Third,  Fourth,  and  so  on,  out  to  Eleventh.  The  numbers 
continue  on  to  Thirtieth  Street,  but  south  of  Eleventh  the  streets 
are  no  longer  at  right  angles  to  the  line  of  Market. 

Ferries  and  Trains.  — On  account  of  the  frequent  changes 
in  schedules  of  railroads  and  ferry-boats,  time-tables  given  in  a 
work  like  this  might  soon  mislead  readers.  Nevertheless  some 
general  information  about  ferries  and  trains  may  be  of  service. 

Five  lines  of  ferry-boats  have  slips  near  the  foot  of  Market 
Street. 

Farthest  north  is  that  of  the  Sausalito  or  North  Pacific  Coast 
line,  connecting  with  the  narrow-gauge  road  to  San  Rafael,  and 
through  the  redwoods,  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Tomales  Bay, 
and  across  Russian  River  to  Duncan’s  Mill  and  Cazadero. 

Next  to  that  is  the  slip  of  the  Tiburon,  or  San  Francisco  and 
North  Pacific  line,  connecting  at  Tiburon  with  the  broad-gauge 
road  to  San  Rafael,  Petaluma,  Santa  Rosa,  Healdsburg,  and  Clo- 
verdale,  soon  to  be  completed  to  Ukiah,  with  branches  to  Sonoma 
and  to  Guerneville,  at  which  latter  place  it  enters  a redwood 
district  of  the  Southern  Pacific. 

The  third  ferry  line  is  that  (broad-gauge)  to  the  Oakland  Mole, 


10 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


where  it  connects  with  the  broad-gauge  roads  to  Oakland,  Ala- 
meda, Berkeley,  Port  Costa,  there  with  the  roads  to  Oregon,  Og- 
den, Yosemite,  and  Los  Angeles,  and  to  Niles,  with  branches  to 
San  Jose  and  Stockton. 

The  fourth  line  is  that  of  the  South  Pacific  to  the  Alameda 
wharf,  there  connecting  with  narrow-gauge  cars  to  Alameda, 
Oakland,  San  Jose,  the  Santa  Cruz  redwoods,  the  Santa  Cruz 
Big  Tree  Grove-  and  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz,  to  which  it  is  the 
shortest  and  most  interesting  road. 

The  boats  of  the  fifth  line  run  on  the  creek  route,  and  entering 
the  Oakland  harbor,  land  at  the  foot  of  Broadway  in  that  city. 

On  the  peninsula  of  San  Francisco  there  is  only  one  railway, 
the  Southern  Pacific,  and  it  has  two  stations  in  the  city;  the 
main  station  at  Fourth  and  Townsend,  and  another  at  Twenty- 
Sixth  and  Valencia.  From  these  stations  cars  run  to  San 
Mateo,  Redwood,  Menlo  Park,  Santa  Clara,  San  Jos6,  Monterey, 
Santa  Cruz,  and  Templeton. 

The  time-tables  of  all  these  lines,  published  every  day  in  the 
newspapers  of  the  city,  are  full  for  the  routes  to  Berkeley,  Ala- 
meda, Oakland,  Sausalito,  Tiburon,  and  San  Rafael,  but  not  full 
for  other  points.  For  full  tiine-tables  to  remoter  places,  consult 
the  latest  Railroad  Gazetteer,  published  monthly,  and  kept  at  the 
counter  of  all  the  hotels  and  railroad  ticket-offices.  On  page  2 of 
the  pamphlet  you  will  find  an  index.  The  time-table  to  Los 
Angeles  is  given  under  the  head  of  “Overland  via  El  Paso”;  that 
to  Sacramento  under  “Overland  via  Ogden  ”;  and  those  to  Peta- 
luma, Sausalito,  and  Santa  Cruz  under  the  names  given  above 
in  the  mention  of  the  ferries. 

The  Gazetteer  contains  a list  of  the  stage  routes  of  California, 
Oregon,  Washington,  Idaho,  Nevada,  Arizona,  and  Montana,  with 
distances,  time-tables,  and  fares;  an  alphabetical  list  of  the  towns 
in  each  of  those  states  and  territories,  with  the  mode  or  modes  of 
conveyance  to  it,  the  distance  on  each  kind  of  conveyance,  and 
the  fare  from  San  Francisco,  and  lists  of  the  steamer  lines  on  the 
inland  waters  and  coast  of  California. 

This  Railroad  Gazetteer,  being  the  best  authority  in  California 
time-tables,  and  being  kept  at  every  railway  station  and  promi- 
nent hotel  in  the  country,  should  be  consulted  by  tourists  when- 
ever they  intend  to  travel,  and  have  doubts  about  trains  or 
boats.  Time-tables  have  some  features  not  easily  understood,  es- 
pecially when  information  is  wanted  about  connecting  trains; 
and  under  many  circumstances,  it  may  be  well  to  ask  the  advice 
of  experienced  persons. 

Street-car  Lines. — The  street-car  lines  of  San  Francisco 
are  so  numerous  that  few  persons  can  remember  all  their  routes, 
and  many  old  residents  have  yet  to  ride  over  some  portions  of 
these  roads.  Generally  the  cars  run  on  them  from  6 A.  m.  till 
Up.  m.  ; but  they  do  not  start  at  the  same  time  from  the  dif- 
ferent ends.  To  give  all  the  particulars  of  the  times  when  they 
start  from  each  end,  and  the  intervals  between  the  cars  at 


SAX  FRANCISCO. 


11 


different  times  of  the  day  and  week,  would  require  much  space, 
and  would  bother  the  average  reader  by  hiding  the  information 
which  he  wants  amidst  a mass  of  other  stuff  of  no  interest  to  him. 
Such  knowledge  as  is  not  given  here  can  readily  be  obtained  by 
inquiry  of  conductors. 

The  McAllister  Street  cable-cars  run  from  the  water-front,  on 
Market  and  McAllister  Streets,  to  G-olden  Gate  Park,  from  5:30 
a.  m.  till  12  p.  M. 

The  Hayes  Street  cable-cars  run  from  the  water-front,  on  Mar- 
ket and  Hayes,  to  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  from  5:20  A.  M.  to 
11:  10  P.  M. 

The  Haight  Street  cable-cars  run  from  the  water-front,  on 
Market  and.  Haight,  to  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  from  5:50  A.  M. 
till  11:30  P.  M. 

The  Park  and  Ocean  steam  railroad  runs  from  the  corner  of 
Stanyan  and  Haight  Streets,  where  it  connects  with  the  Haight 
Street  cable-cars  to  the  ocean  beach,  near  the  Cliff  House,  from 
8 A.  m.  to  6 p.  M. 

The  Valencia,  McAllister,  Hayes,  and  Haight  Street  cars  all 
run  over  the  same  tracks  on  Market  Street,  and  are  under  the 
control  of  the  same  stockholders,  organized  in  different  compa- 
nies. Cable  lines  under  the  same  management  are  soon  to  run  on 
Market  Street,  west  of  Valencia,  and  on  Castro  Street. 

Fifth  Street  cars,  from  Market  through  Fifth,  and  Bluxome  to 
Fourth,  transfer  at  Fifth  and  Market  with  all  the  Market  Street 
cable-cars. 

Tbe  Geary  Street  cable-cars  run  from  Kearny,  through  Geary, 
to  Central  Avenue,  from  6:21  A.  M.  to  11:  35  p.  m.  The  Geary 
Street  steam-cars  run  from  Central  Avenue,  through  Point  Lobos 
Avenue  (an  extension  of  Geary  Street),  First  Avenue,  and  Fulton 
Street,  to  an  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  and  there  con- 
nect by  transfer  tickets  with  the  Geary  Street  cable-cars. 

The  California  Street  cable-cars  run  from  Kearny,  on  Cali- 
fornia, to  Central  Avenue,  from  6: 20  A.  m.  till  12  p.  m. 

The  Clay  Street  cable-cars  run  over  the  first  road  of  this  kind 
ever  built,  from  Kearny,  on  Clay,  to  Van  Ness  Avenue,  from 
6:45  a.  m.  to  11  p.  m.  Transfer  tickets  given  to  Powell  Street 
line. 

The  Jackson  and  Washington  cable-cars  run,  going  west,  from 
East  Street,  water-front,  through  Clay,  Stockton,  Jackson, 
Steiner,  Jackson,  and  Central  Avenue  to  California;  and  return 
the  same  way,  save  that  from  Steiner  to  Stockton  it  runs  on 
Washington  Street.  Transfer  with  the  Powell  Street  cars. 

The  Powell  Street  cable-cars  run  from  Market,  through  Powell, 
Jackson,  Mason,  Montgomery  Avenue,  and  Taylor  Street,  to  the 
bay.  Transfers  with  the  Jackson,  Washington,  and  Clay  Street 
cars. 

The  Golden  Gate  Park  line,  from  Central  Avenue,  through 
California  and  Seventh  Avenue,  to  the  Golden  Gate  Park. 
Transfers  with  the  Jackson  and  Washington  cable-cars. 


12 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


The  Cliff  House  steam-cars  run  on  California  Street,  on  Central 
Avenue,  and  along  the  bluffs  of  the  Golden  Gate  to  the  Cliff 
House. 

The  North  Beach  and  Mission  (called  also  the  Kearny  Street) 
(yellow)  cars  run  from  Fourth  Street,  through  Townsend,  Fourth, 
Stockton,  Geary,  Kearny,  Pacific,  Dupont,  Broadway,  Powell, 
Montgomery  Avenue,  Mason,  and  Francisco,  to  North  Beach. 

The  North  Beach  and  Mission  (blue)  cars  run  from  the  water- 
front, through  Market,  California,  Kearny,  Market,  Eighth,  and 
Folsom  to  Twenty-sixth  Street.  Transfer  with  other  N.  B.  & 
M.  car  lines. 

The  North  Beach  and  Mission  (one  horse)  cars  run  from  Mont- 
gomery, through  California,  Battery,  First,  and  Folsom,  tc 
Eighth  Street.  Transfers  with  other  N.  B.  & M.  car  lines. 

The  Montgomery  Street  or  omnibus  cars  run  from  Fourth 
Street,  through  Townsend,  Third,  Market,  Montgomery  Avenue, 
Pacific,  Stockton,  and  Powell,  to  North  Beach. 

The  Howard  Street  omnibus  cars  run  from  water-front  through 
Market,  Spear,  and  Howard,  to  Twenty-sixth  Street.  Transfer 
with  the  Montgomery  Street  line. 

The  Brannan  Street  omnibus  cars  run  from  Third,  through 
Brannan,  to  Pacific  Mail  Dock.  Transfer  with  the  Montgomery 
Street  line. 

The  Spear  Street  omnibus  cars  run  from  the  water-front, 
through  Market  and  Spear  Streets,  to  the  dock  of  the  Oregon 
steamers.  Transfer  with  the  Montgomery  Street  line. 

The  Sutter  Street  cable-cars  run  from  the  water-front  through 
Market  and  Sutter  streets  to  Central  Avenue,  from  6 a.  m.  to  12 

p.  M. 

The  Polk  and  Larkin  Street  cable-cars  run  from  Brannan 
through  Ninth,  Larkin,  Post,  Polk,  and  Pacific  to  Fillmore,  with 
a horse-car  branch  on  Polk  from  Pacific  to  Union;  transfers  given 
at  Sutter  for  Sutter  Street  cars,  and  Ninth  for  Mission  Street  cars 
going  towards  Mission. 

The  Union  Street  cable-cars  run  from  Montgomery  Street 
through  Montgomery  Avenue  and  Union  to  Steiner,  with  trans- 
fer to  horse-car  branch  from  Montgomery  Street  through  Wash- 
ington Street  to  water-front. 

The  Presidio  steam-cars  connect  at  Steiner  and  Union  streets 
with  the  Union  Street  cars  from  7 A.  m.  till  10:20  p.  m. 

The  Mission  Street  cars  run  from  the  foot  of  Market  Street 
through  East  and  Mission  to  Thirty-first  Street.  Give  transfers 
at  Ninth  for  Larkin  and  Polk  cars. 

The  Grant  Avenue  cars  of  the  Mission  Street  line  run  from 
Twentieth  Street  through  Mission,  Fifth,  Market,  Grant  Avenue, 
and  Sutter  to  Market;  at  end  of  Sutter  Street  give  transfers  to 
Sutter  Street  cars  for  foot  of  Market  Street. 

The  Turk  Street  cars  of  the  Central  line  run  from  the  water- 
front through  Market,  Bush,  Kearny,  Post,  Grant  Avenue,  Mar- 
ket, Turk,  and  Fillmore  to  Post. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


13 


The  Sixth  Street  cars  of  the  Central  line  run  from  foot  of  Mar- 
ket Street  through  East,  Jackson,  Sansome,  Bush,  Kearny,  Post, 
Stockton,  Geary,  Taylor,  and  Sixth  to  Brannan;  transfer  at  Tay- 
lor and  Turk  with  other  Central  line. 

In  Oakland  there  are  street-car  lines  from  the  center  of  the 
city,  Broadway  or  Washington  and  Seventh,  to  Alameda,  to 
Berkeley,  to  the  Oakland  Cemetery,  to  Piedmont,  to  East  Oak- 
land, and  to  the  Sixteenth  Street  station;  and  from  East  Oakland 
there  is  a line  to  Fruitvale. 

The  City.  — The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  situated  on 
the  northeastern  corner  of  the  peninsula  of  San  Francisco.  The 
latitude  is  three  degrees  south  of  that  of  Naples.  The  City  Hall 
is  in  37°  47'.  The  legal  title  of  the  municipal  corporation  is 
“The  City  and  County  of  San  Francisco.”  Her  area  is  about 
six  miles  square,  her  southern  boundary  running  east  and  west 
across  the  peninsula,  six  miles  south  of  the  Golden  Gate.  This 
area  includes  some  sand-dune,  much  high,  steep  hill,  much  land 
occupied  only  for  pasture,  four  lakes  (one  now  converted  into 
reservoir,  with  a bottom  and  sides  of  cement),  and  several  na- 
tional military  reservations. 

Though  she  had  only  233,000  inhabitants  in  1880,  and  there- 
fore must  be  classed  as  to  size  with  cities  of  the  third  or  fourth 
grade,  San  Francisco  may  fairly  claim  a place  in  the  first  rank  in 
point  of  interest  to  the  traveler  and  student.  She  possesses  a 
happy  combination  of  advantages  in  her  situation,  the  agreeable 
nature  of  her  climate,  the  activity  of  her  business,  the  rapidity 
of  her  growth,  the  cosmopolitan  character  of  her  population,  and 
the  abundance  and  variety  of  her  public  amusements.  Nature 
and  art  have  united  their  powers  to  make  her  the  metropolis  of 
this  side  of  our  continent.  Her  position  is  midway  on  the  west- 
ern coast,  and  topographical,  industrial,  and  climatic  influences 
unite,  with  established  routes  of  travel  and  financial  and  social 
considerations,  to  make  her  the  converging  point  of  the  entire 
slope.  Her  chief  business  district  is  6 miles  from  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  head  of  a peninsula  30  miles 
long,  that  separates  the  southern  arm  of  San  Francisco  Bay 
from  the  sea.  This  bay,  covering  with  its  branches  more  than 
600  square  miles,  has  been  aptly  described  as  “a  miniature 
Mediterranean,”  and  in  beauty  and  convenience  for  commerce 
is  not  unworthy  of  its  magnificent  entrance,  the  Golden  Gate. 

The  City’s  Origin.  — The  city  is  the  successor  and  heir  of 
two  villages,  those  of  San  Francisco  and  Yerba  Buena.  The 
former  occupied  about  150  acres  near  the  Mission  church,  on  the 
corner  of  Dolores  and  Sixteenth  Streets,  the  Mission  having  been 
founded  by  Franciscan  Friars,  October  8,  1776.  For  59  years 
the  authority  of  the  Mission  was  dominant,  at  least  nominally, 
but  it  was  overthrown  in  1835  by  the  decree  of  secularization, 
and  then  the  village  of  San  Francisco  succeeded.  In  that  same 
year  W.  A.  Richardson,  an  Englishman,  who  had  been  residing 
for  13  years  at  Sausalito,  erected  a tent  at  811  Dupont  Street, 


14 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


as  the  place  is  now  designated,  to  trade  in  hides  and  tallow. 
This  was  the  beginning  of  the  village  of  Yerba  Buena,  which  in 
1845  occupied  about  40  acres  of  land  on  the  shores  of  Yerba 
Buena  Cove.  The  two  villages  were  separated  by  3 miles  of  sand 
hills,  covered  with  dense  chaparral,  and  the  only  communication 
was  by  a horse  trail.  San  Francisco  was  Mexican,  and  lived  by 
the  sale  of  hides  and  tallow;  Yerba  Buena  was  American  and 
British,  and  lived  by  trading.  A great  change  was  made  in 
July,  1846,  when  the  American  flag  was  hoisted,  and  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay  became  the  headquarters  of  the  American  navy  on 
the  Pacific.  In  January,  1847,  the  village  of  Yerba  Buena 
assumed  the  name  of  San  Francisco;  and  in  July,  1S48,  six 
months  after  the  gold  discovery,  had  about  500  residents,  or 
perhaps  one  fifteenth  so  many  people  as  the  average  annual  in- 
crease of  the  population  for  the  last  32  years.  Every  house  now 
standing  within  2 miles  from  the  business  center  of  the  city  has 
been  built  since  1846,  and  every  house  of  the  better  class  since 
1852.  The  face  of  nature  has  been  changed,  so  that  those  who 
saw  the  site  in  1848  no  longer  recognize  it.  Then  there  was 
scarcely  level  space  enough  for  500  people;  now  there  is  room 
for  1,000,000  people.  Hundreds  of  hills  and  ridges  have  been 
cut  down;  and  large  tracts  of  ravine,  swamp,  mud  flat,  and  bay 
filled  up. 

Local  History. — Among  the  events  in  the  history  of  San 
Francisco  possessing  a public  and  permanent  interest,  the  follow- 
ing deserve  mention  here:  — 

November  7,  1769.  Discovery  of  the  bay  by  Friar  JuanCrespi 
and  party. 

September  17,  1776.  Establishment  of  the  Presidio  or  Span- 
ish fort. 

October  8,  1776.  Establishment  of  the  Mission. 

1813.  Mission  in  its  most  prosperous  condition,  with  1,205 
Indians. 

August  9,  1834.  Governor  Figueroa’s  official  announcement 
of  overthrow  of  the  mission  system. 

1835.  First  dwelling  in  future  village  of  Yerba  Buena,  a tent 
set  up  by  W.  A.  Richardson. 

July  4,  1836.  First  wooden  house  of  Yerba  Buena  finished 
by  Jacob  P.  Leese. 

1839.  Survey  of  the  village  of  Yerba  Buena  by  J.  J.  Vioget. 
Lots  were  marked  off  on  eleven  blocks,  most  of  which  fronted 
or  cornered  on  Portsmouth  Square.  No  names  were  given  to  the 
streets. 

January  1,  1846.  Yerba  Buena  had  30  houses. 

July  8,  1846.  Hoisting  of  the  stars  and  stripes  as  a symbol 
that  the  dominion  had  that  day  changed  from  Mexico  to  the 
United  States. 

January  30,  1847.  Name  of  Yerba  Buena  changed  to  San 
Francisco  by  an  alcalde’s  decree. 

August  1,  1847.  The  first  census  of  San  Francisco  showed 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


15 


the  possession  of  459  inhabitants  and  157  houses,  exclusive  of 
the  village  at  the  Mission. 

January  9,  1848.  Date  of  the  first  number  of  the  California 
Star,  the  pioneer  newspaper  of  San  Francisco. 

March  15,  1848.  First  printed  report  of  the  discovery  of  gold 
at  Coloma. 

May  20,  1S48.  San  Francisco  deserted  by  nearly  all  its  adult 
male  inhabitants,  — absent  at  mines. 

Feb.  28,  1849.  Arrival  of  the  first  ocean  steamer  by  the  San 
Francisco  and  Panama  route. 

April  15,  1850.  City  charter  granted  to  San  Francisco. 

April  25,  1850.  County  of  San  Francisco  created,  including 
what  is  now  San  Mateo  County. 

June  1,  1850.  United  States  census.  Figures  for  San  Fran- 
cisco lost. 

May  3,  1851.  Great  fire.  Loss  §7,000,000. 

June  1,  1852.  State  census.  Population  of  county,  36,000. 

April  19,  1856.  Consolidation  act  passed,  creating  the  city 
and  county  of  San  Francisco  with  its  present  boundaries,  and 
cutting  off  San  Mrtco  County. 

May  14,  1856.  Murder  of  James  King  of  William  by  James 
P.  Casey. 

May  15,  1856.  Vigilance  Committee  organized. 

May  26,  1856.  Casey  hanged  by  Vigilance  Committee. 

August  18,  1856.  After  hanging  four  murderers,  banishing 
about  three  dozen  ballot-box  stuffers  and  other  evil-doers,  hold- 
ing possession  of  the  city  for  three  months,  and  laying  the  foun- 
dation for  important  municipal  reforms,  the  Vigilance  Committee 
made  a public  parade  (with  5,137  men  in  line,  nearly  all  armed 
and  drilled  in  military  companies),  and  then  disbanded. 

June  1,  1860.  United  States  census.  City  population,  56,000. 

November  15,  1862.  The  cars  began  to  run  on  the  Omnibus 
route,  — the  first  street  railway. 

December  22,  1864.  Ordinance  adopted  to  widen  Kearny 
Street  from  45  feet  5 inches  to  75  feet  from  Broadway  to  Market 
street.  On  account  of  litigation,  the  work  of  widening  was  not 
commenced  until  two  years  later.  The  expense  of  the  widening 
was  $600,000;  the  addition  to  the  value  of  property  within  two 
years  was  $4,000,000. 

March  8,  1866.  Congress  confirmed  the  city’s  title  to  the  pub- 
lic land  within  the  city  limits  for  the  benefit  of  the  persons  in 
possession. 

October  21,  1868.  The  severest  earthquake  since  the  American 
occupation.  Five  persons  killed  on  the  streets  by  bricks  falling 
from  housetops. 

June  1,  1870.  United  States  census.  Population  149,000. 

August  26,  1875.  Failure  of  Bank  of  California,  the  capital 
of  which  was  afterwards  restored.  Sudden  death  of  W.  C. 
Ralston,  several  hours  after  resigning  his  position  as  president  of 
the  hank. 


16 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


June  1,  1880.  United  States  census.  Population  233,000. 

Site.  — The  site  of  land  upon  which  the  city  has  been  built 
consisted,  in  1849,  of  steep  ridges  and  deep  ravines.  The  near- 
est level  and  dry  land  was  at  the  Mission.  The  place,  in  its 
natural  condition,  was  unfit  for  occupation  by  a dense  popula- 
tion, and  immense  changes  were  made  by  cutting  down  hills, 
filling  up  hollows,  and  converting  the  mud  flat  and  anchorage  in 
front  of  the  town,  as  it  then  was,  into  land.  The  city  contains 
more  than  four  hundred  acres  of  “made  ground,”  and  a large 
part  of  the  business  is  done  where  the  water  stood  in  1850.  The 
bay  shore  then  came  up  west  of  Sansome  Street,  from  California 
to  Jackson,  and  a large  ship  called  the  Niantic  was  drawn  up 
and  permanently  fixed  in  1849  on  the  northwestern  corner  of 
Sansome  and  Clay,  a point  about  half  a mile  distant  from  the 
present  water-front.  The  change  in  the  level  of  the  ground  has 
amounted  in  many  places  to  fifty  feet  or  more,  and  railroads 
were  built  to  carry  the  hills  down  to  the  bay.  Happy  Valley, 
Hayes  Valley,  Spring  Valley,  and  St.  Ann’s  Valley  were  de- 
stroyed by  transporting  the  hills  that  inclosed  them,  pr  by 
raising  the  level  of  the  low  ground.  Spring  Valley  was  at  the 
northeastern  corner  of  Taylor  and  Clay  Streets,  and  was  at  least 
50  feet  below  the  present  level.  A little  spring  there  was 
claimed,  with  the  idea  that  by  digging,  enough  water  could  be 
obtained  to  supply  the  city,  in  the  days  when  that  fluid  was 
brought  from  Sausalito  in  a water-boat,  and  peddled  around  at 
twenty-five  cents  a bucket  from  water-carts. 

Notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  done  to  reduce  the  steep- 
ness of  the  natural  grades  of  streets  and  lots,  including  the 
transfer  of  20,000,000  cubic  yards  of  earthy  material,  San  Fran- 
cisco is  still  remarkably  hilly,  and  may  properly  be  termed  “the 
Hundred-hilled  City.  ” The  highest  point,  a mile  and  a quarter 
southeastward  from  the  Mission  Peaks,  is  938  feet  high.  The 
Mission  Peaks,  twin  hills  of  equal  height,  perhaps  200  yards 
apart,  are  925  feet;  Reservoir  Hill,  a mile  northwest  from  the 
Mission  Peaks,  920;  Park  Peak,  579;  Bernal  Hill,  480;  Lone 
Mountain,  468;  Strawberry  Hill,  in  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  426; 
Russian  Hill,  a mile  long,  and  the  most  prominent  hill  in  the 
densely  settled  part  of  the  city,  400;  Potrero  Hill,  326;  Tele- 
graph Hill,  294;  South  San  Francisco  Hill,  260;  and  Rincon  Hill, 
120.  These  are  all  within  the  city  limits,  and  are  but  a few  of 
many,  the  others  being  less  notable  because  of  remoteness  from 
the  settled  districts  or  smaller  elevation.  Russian  Hill,  Tele- 
graph Hill,  and  Rincon  Hill  are  covered  with  dwellings.  Almost 
as  numerous  as  the  hills  are  the  valleys,  some  of  which  are  in 
the  shape  of  amphitheaters,  nearly  surrounded  by  heights,  from 
which  the  spectator  looks  down  on  a densely  populated  territory, 
interesting  by  day  and  brilliant  at  night;  when  numerous  long 
rows  of  gas  lights  and  lighted  windows  are  spread  out.  reaching 
to  the  hilltops  in  the  remote  distance.  Such  amphitheaters  are 
seen  looking  from  Telegraph  Hill  to  the  southwestward,  from 


SAX  FEANCISCO. 


17 


Rincon  Hill  to  the  westward,  from  Mission  Peaks  to  the  north- 
eastward, from  Russian  Hill  to  the  westward,  and  from  its 
southern  end  to  the  southward,  the  last  being  the  most  attractive 
of  these  dews,  and  also  the  most  conveniently  accessible.  The 
city,  as  seen  from  the  approaching  Oakland  ferry-boat,  makes  an 
impressive  appearance,  especially  at  night,  when  ablaze  with 
lines  of  light  climbing  its  hills.  A clergyman  from  Ohio,  the 
Rev.  G.  W.  Pepper,  thus  expressed  himself:  — 

“ Inconceivably  beautiful  is  the  first  glimpse  of  San  Francisco. 
This  city  is  the  grandest  embodiment  of  the  American  mind! 
The  most  modern  type  of  the  ancient  cities,  which  fancy  dreams 
of  in  the  past!  American  genius  covered  that  sandy  ground 
with  a throng  of  business  temples,  sacred  edifices,  palatial  resi- 
dences, — the  comeliest  assemblage  of  structures  the  sun  has  ever 
gilded.  The  public  buildings — -the  Mint,  the  California  Bank, 
the  Merchants’  Exchange,  the  hotels,  Baldwin,  Occidental,  Lick 

House,  and  the  Palace- — are  marvels  of  architecture 

San  Francisco  has  no  rival  in  the  United  States.  We  may  con- 
trast but  not  compare  it  with  Eastern  or  even  European  cities. 
London  is  grand,  but  not  beautiful.  Paris  is  beautiful,  but  not 
grand.  Constantinople  is  picturesque,  but  has  no  architectural 
splendor.  But  San  Francisco  has  all  these  attributes.  It  has 
been  compared  to  Cleveland,  city  of  beautiful  avenues.  Cleve- 
land is  charming;  Ban  Francisco  is  stupendous,  romantic.  Cleve- 
land is  lovely;  San  Francisco  is  grand.  Cleveland  is  American; 
San  Francisco  is  cosmopolitan.  Cleveland  is  a garden  made  by 
man;  San  Francisco  looks  as  if  it  were  built  by  the  gods.” 

A.  E.  D.  Rupert,  who  wrote  a book  about  his  travels  in  the 
United  States,  says:  “San  Francisco  is  the  city  of  wondrous 
sights.  It  is  the  most  picturesque  town  in  America,  - — not  even 
excepting  Quebec,  — and  also  one  of  the  most  beautiful.” 

Telegraph.  Hill.  — In  the  northeastern  corner  of  San  Fran- 
cisco is  Telegraph  Hill,  so  called  because  in  1849,  and  for  some 
years  afterwards,  it  was  occupied  by  a telegraph  station,  with 
arms  attached  to  a pole,  and  when  a vessel  entered  the  harbor, 
these  were  moved  to  indicate  the  character  of  the  new  arrival. 
The  signal  for  a side-wheel  steamer,  about  the  time  when  the 
New  York  mail,  by  way  of  Panama,  was  expected,  attracted 
great  attention.  The  hill  is  296  feet  high,  and  from  its  summit 
the  best  view  of  the  water-front  and  business  portion  of  the  city 
can  be  obtained.  All  the  wharves,  from  Rincon  Point  to  North 
Point,  are  in  sight;  with  the  shipping  at  anchor,  either  in  the 
stream  or  in  the  slips.  The  Golden  Gate  and  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
nearly  all  of  both  arms  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  part  of  San  Pablo 
Bay,  the  Contra  Costa  Mountains  for  a distance  of  thirty  miles, 
Monte  Diablo,  the  Suscol  Hills,  the  hills  beyond  Napa  Valley, 
the  range  between  Napa  and  Sonoma,  the  plains  of  Alameda  and 
San  Pablo,  Oakland,  Brooklyn,  Alameda,  San  Leandro,  San  Lo- 
renzo, Haywards,  and  various  other  villages,  are  visible.  It  is 
important  to  select  a very  clear  day.  The  view  is  so  extensive 
2 


IS 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


that  a slight  haze,  scarcely  noticed  when  looking  at  objects  within 
a mile  or  two,  hides  much  of  beauty  in  the  distance.  The  wind 
on  the  lull  is  often  cold  and  strong.  The  best  time  for  going  to 
the  hill  is  about  nine  o’clock  on  a clear  morning. 

The  following  are  the  directions  and  distances  of  various  points 
from  Davidson’s  Count  Pilot:  — 


Distance.  Directions. 


The  Farallones 

35 

miles  W. 

Pt.  Bonita  Light  House 



“ Nearly  W. 

Alcatraz . 

n 

“ N.  N.  W. 

Yerba  Buena  Island 

OX. 

“ E. 

Sausalito 

5 

“ N.  W. 

Red  Rock 

9 

“ N. 

Two  Brothers 

.11 

“ N. 

Two  Sisters 

“ N. 

Fort  Point. 

3 h 

“ W. 

Oakland 

7 

“ E. 

Monte  Diablo 

29 

“ N.  N.  E. 

Tamalpais 

12 

“ N.  W. 

Monte  Diablo  and  Tamalpais  are  the  two  most  prominent  peaks 
distinctly  visible  from  the  hill. 

Mr.  Rupert  says:  “A  good  view  of  the  city  and  its  splendid 
surroundings  can  be  had  from  several  of  the  hills,  especially  from 
Telegraph  Hill  and  California  Street  Hill.  From  these  heights 
the  traveler  sees  at  a glance  the  whole  city,  — a forest  of 
houses,  with  domes  and  steeples  towering  above  them;  the  busy 
wharves,  and  the  bay,  the  largest,  the  most  commodious,  and  the 
safest  harbor  in  America.  Alcatraz  and  Goat  islands  are  near  by. 
The  former  is  not  a smiling  island.  On  the  contrary,  it  frowns, 
and  at  times  its  thunders  awaken  the  echoes  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  for  it  is  fortified  and  garrisoned  by  United  States 

troops The  beautiful  city  of  Oakland,  the  Brooklyn  of 

San  Francisco,  the  villages  of  Berkeley  and  Alameda,  are  there 
in  full  view,  east,  just  across  the  bay,  some  7 or  8 miles  dis- 
tant, smiling  under  a blue  and  cloudless  heaven,  and  almost 
under  the  shadows  of  a range  of  treeless  mountains,  green  in  win- 
ter and  yellow  in  summer,  that  frame  the  panorama  at  whatever 
points  of  the  compass  the  eyes  may  be  directed.” 

San  Francisco  at  Night.- — A consequence  of  the  topo- 
graphical situation  of  San  Francisco,  on  hills  which  inclose  sev- 
eral amphitheaters,  is,  that  the  city,  as  seen  from  various  points, 
presents  a most  brilliant  appearance  at  night.  The  best  view  is 
found  on  the  corner  of  California  and  Jones  Streets,  looking  to 
the  southward,  eastward,  and  westward,  looking  over  many 
square  miles,  intersected  by  lines  of  street  lamps.  The  other 
portions  of  Russian  Hill  north  of  California  Street  and  Tele- 
graph Hill,  have  similar  views,  but  less  extensive.  As  seen  from 
the  bay,  when  approached  from  Oakland  at  night,  San  Francisco 
presents  a brilliant  spectacle,  of  which  Mr.  Rupert  says:  “Your 
eyes  seem  riveted  on  something  in  the  distance  ahead.  It  is  a 


SAX  FRANCISCO. 


19 


strange,  novel,  weird,  fascinating  sight,  that  something.  It  is  a 
mountain  looming  out  of  the  water,  some  three  miles  in  length, 
and  all  ablaze  with  lights  running  upwards  in  close  parallel  lines, 
and  losing  themselves  in  the  cloudless  horizon  above  among 
twinkling  stars.  Silvery  stars  above,  and  golden  stars  below,  — 
splendid  contrast!  This  miniature  firmament,  profusely  decked 
with  stars  of  gold,  and  seemingly  floating  over  the  waters  of  the 
bay,  is  San  Francisco,  sleeping.” 

Surrounding-  Scenery.  — San  Francisco  is  remarkable  in 
many  respects,  and  perhaps  in  none  more  than  in  the  beauty  of 
the  situation  and  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  To  get  a clear 
idea  of  the  topography  of  her  vicinity,  it  is  important  to  know 
that  in  the  latitude  of  the  city  there  are  three  parallel  moun- 
tain ridges  of  the  Coast  Range  running  nearly  north  and  south, 
with  intervals  of  about  ten  miles  between  their  summits,  and 
several  miles  of  valley  land  or  water  between  their  bases. 
Nearest  the  ocean,  and  in  many  places  making  a high  bluff 
shore,  is  the  San  Mateo  ridge;  eastward  from  it  is  the  Contra 
Costa  ridge;  and  the  easternmost  of  the  three  is  the  Diablo  ridge. 
Each  of  these  ridges  is,  with  some  interruptions  where  it  has 
been  washed  away  by  water,  at  least  a hundred  miles  long,  and 
somewhere  in  its  length  reaches  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet  or 
more.  The  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  rivers 
break  through  these  three  ridges;  and  on  their  way  to  the  ocean 
form  the  bay  of  Suisun,  between  the  Diablo  and  Contra  Costa 
ridges,  the  bays  of  San  Pablo  and  San  Francisco  between  the 
Contra  Costa  and  San  Mateo  ridges,  the  Silver  Gate  at  Be- 
nicia in  passing  through  the  Contra  Costa  ridge,  and  the  Golden 
Gate  at  San  Francisco  in  passing  through  the  San  Mateo  ridge. 
San  Francisco  bay  is  on  the  average  about  50  miles  long  and  4 
miles  wide,  and  12  or  1 5 miles  from  the  ocean,  with  which  it  is 
parallel.  Near  the  middle  of  this  long  bay  is  the  Golden  Gate, 
which  name  is  given  to  the  whole  channel,  about  6 miles  long, 
from  the  bay  to  the  ocean,  4 miles  wide  at  the  broadest,  and  one 
mile  wide  at  the  narrowest  part,  where  the  depth  exceeds  400 
feet.  On  each  side  of  the  Golden  Gate,  between  the  bay  and  the 
ocean,  lies  a mountainous  peninsula,  narrow  at  the  point  and 
wide  at  the  base;  and  on  the  northern  end  of  the  southern  penin- 
sula stands  the  metropolis  of  California. 

On  the  western  limit  of  the  city  is  a flat  beach,  over  which 
rolls  and  roars  unceasingly  the  high  surf  of  the  wide  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  wet  sand  offers  for  a distance  of  three  miles  a beau- 
tiful drive,  such  as  can  be  found  perhaps  near  no  other  American 
city  save  Boston.  The  harbor  is  always  interesting,  with  its 
ships,  ferry  steamers,  sail-boats,  occasional  war  ships,  and 
wharves,  many  of  which  are  occupied  for  special  purposes,  as  for 
lumber,  coal,  wheat,  China  steamers,  Oregon  steamers,  Southern 
Coast  steamers,  Italian  fishermen,  etc.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
bay  we  see  the  mole  and  wharves  of  Oakland  and  Alameda;  and 
beyond,  on  the  shore,  we  see  towns,  cultivated  fields,  the  Contra 


•20 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Costa  ridge  rising  to  a height  of  2,000  feet,  and  beyond  that  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Diablo,  3,850  feet  high,  and  30  miles  off.  It  is  to 
be  remembered  that  we  get  our  impressions  of  San  Francisco  bay 
from  looking  down  upon  it  from  elevations  of  300  and  400  feet; 
not  from  the  wharves,  as  in  New  York  and  other  maratime  cities 
generally. 

If  we  look  north,  we  see  the  Golden  Gate,  six  miles  long  from 
east  to  west,  and  a mile  wide  at  the  narrowest  point,  and  beyond 
that  the  high,  steep  cliffs  of  the  peninsula  of  Marin  county.  At 
the  eastern  point  of  the  peninsula  is  the  beautiful  village  of  Sau- 
salito,  partly  hidden  in  its  trees.  Alcatraz  Island  and  Angel 
Island  are  prominent  features  in  the  view;  and  above  them  rises 
the  beautiful  mountain  of  Tamalpais,  2,600  feet  high,  and  12 
miles  away.  Opposite  to  Tamalpais  is  the  small  island  of  Red 
Rock,  over  which  we  see  the  mountains  bounding  Sonoma  and 
Napa  valleys,  and  over  them,  from  the  higher  points  in  the  city, 
we  see  the  flat  summit  of  the  extinct  volcano  of  St.  Helena,  65 
miles  away,  and  4,343  feet  high.  The  wild  shores  of  the  Golden 
Gate,  near  the  ocean,  either  when  green  with  the  verdure  of 
spring,  or  when  the  rich  brownish  and  purplish  tints  of  the  earth 
and  rock  are  mingled  with  the  yellow  of  the  dried  grass  in  the 
late  summer,  are  very  romantic.  And  then  at  the  outer  point, 
in  the  northwestern  corner  of  the  city,  is  the  beautiful  park 
known  as  the  Sutro  Heights,  rich  in  vegetation  and  ornamenta- 
tion, overlooking  the  ocean,  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  and  the 
Seal  Rocks,  with  their  multitude  of  sea-lions,  which  lie  there  in 
security  on  the  rocks,  and  swim  about  in  the  water  every  day  in 
the  year.  Twenty-eight  miles  westward  are  the  islands  known 
as  the  F arallones. 

Turning  southward,  we  see  the  southern  arm  of  the  bay,  with 
Mission  and  Islais  cpves,  Mt.  San  Bruno,  and  the  mountains  east 
of  San  Jose;  and  with  a good  telescope  on  a clear  day  we  can  see 
the  Lick  Observatory,  4,440  feet  high,  on  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Hamilton,  50  miles  away,  as  well  as  peaks  beyond.  From  north 
to  south  we  see  more  than  100  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  at 
least  50  miles. 

In  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  six  miles  square  of  the  city’s 
area  is  Lake  Merced,  shaped  like  a horseshoe  and  two  miles  long; 
near  the  northwestern  corner  is  Mountain  Lake,  and  about  half- 
way between  them,  and  400  feet  above  the  sea-level,  was  Lake 
Honda,  now  converted  into  a reservoir  for  supplying  the  city 
with  water. 

By  many  noted  travelers,  Naples  has  been  declared  unequaled 
among  great  cities  in  the  beauty  of  its  surrounding  scenery;  but 
that  beauty  is  limited,  it  may  be  said,  to  a single  view,  — the 
one  from  the  western  part  of  the  city,  looking  across  the  water- 
front in  the  middle  ground  towards  Vesuvius  on  the  left,  and 
towards  the  island  of  Capri  on  the  right.  A grand  landscape  is 
there  spread  out  before  the  spectator,  and  he  who  does  not  admit 
it  in  its  presence,  and  remember  it  with  pleasure  afterwards. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


21 


must  be  dull  indeed.  Although  superior  to  any  one  scene  at  San 
Francisco,  it  stands  alone,  and  is  far  inferior  in  interest  to  the  ag- 
gregate of  fifty  different  views  in  and  about  our  city.  The  bay  of 
Naples  has  less  beauty  and  variety,  fewer  islands,  less  active  ship- 
ping, and  lower,  tamer,  and  less  indented  shores  than  ours.  Its 
mountains  are  on  only  one  side;  its  water  is  on  only  one  side;  it 
has  no  surf;  no  Seal  Rocks;  no  Golden  Gate;  no  lakes;  no  mul- 
titude of  independent  hills;  no  roads  reaching  an  elevation  of 
600  feet,  winding  among  high  hills;  no  such  wide  area  of  public 
grounds  as  are  here  found  in  the  Golden  Gate  Park  and  the  Pre- 
sidio tract;  and  no  high  points  in  the  vicinity  from  which  it  can 
be  overlooked  from  various  points  of  the  compass.  The  views 
towards  our  city  from  the  hills  of  Sausalito,  Angel  Island,  Berke- 
ley, Piedmont,  and  San  Bruno  contribute  much  to  the  attractive- 
ness of  the  situation  of  San  Francisco. 

Next  to  Naples,  Geneva  has  the  repute  of  having  the  most 
beautiful  position  for  a city  in  the  enlightened  part  of  Europe, 
and  no  one  can  see  it  without  being  enchanted  with  its  delicately 
tinted  lake  and  river,  the  romantic  shores  of  the  lake,  the  wide 
views  from  Mt.  Salfeve,  and  the  snow-clad  summit  of  Mt.  Blanc 
and  the  adjacent  Alps;  but  these  in  their  sum,  after  all,  do  not 
equal  or  even  approach  the  landscape  attractions  of  the  California 
metropolis. 

If  any  other  city  looks  down  over  a landscape  more  extensive, 
more  varied,  and  more  beautiful  than  ours,  let  us  know  where. 
If  there  be  one  such,  it  would  deserve  a visit  from  the  remotest 
corners  of  the  globe. 

Trees  and  Shrubbery.  — In  trees  San  Francisco  is  singu- 
larly bare.  As  we  look  down  over  it  from  the  hilltops,  we  can 
scarcely  see  any  trees  in  the  wide  streets,  and  such  trees  as  may 
be  observed  are  cut  down  every  year,  so  that  they  shall  not  be- 
come tall  or  wide-spreading.  The  people  demand  sunshine;  they 
want  to  occupy  the  sunniest  rooms  and  the  sunniest  side  of  the 
street  in  summer  as  well  as  in  winter.  Shade  and  large  shade- 
trees  are  objectionable.  The  yards  and  gardens  are  often  spa- 
cious, but  are  occupied  with  grass,  flowers,  and  low  shrubs. 
Such  as  we  have  are  unlike  those  of  any  city  out  of  California. 
The  most  characteristic  tree  is  the  Monterey  cypress,  which  in 
its  indigenous  specimens  is  found  only  within  a mile  or  two  of 
Cypress  Point  at  Monterey.  When  growing  in  its  native  forests 
it  assumes  extremely  ragged  and  picturesque  shapes;  but  culti- 
vated and  trimmed,  it  becomes  the  most  tractable  and  least  pic- 
turesque. It  can  be  trained  into  the  densest,  widest,  and  highest 
of  hedges,  into  columns,  urns,  cones,  spheres,  or  hollow  squares. 
In  no  San  Francisco  specimen  is  the  picturesque  raggedness  of 
the  young  tree  as  seen  near  Cypress  Point  preserved,  much  less 
heightened,  as  it  might  be. 

Another  Californian  tree  abundant  in  San  F rancisco,  is  the  Mon- 
terey pine,  which  like  the  cypress  thrives  in  the  cold  fogs  of  the 
coast  and  grows  rapidly.  In  its  younger  years  its  top,  suggest- 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


ive  of  candelabra,  is  beautiful.  Its  bluish  green  foliage  con- 
trasts well  with  the  yellowish  green  of  the  cypress. 

The  Lawson  cypress,  another  Californian  tree,  has  a beautiful 
droop  in  its  foliage. 

To  Australia  we  are  indebted  for  the  eucalyptus  trees  and  the 
acacias,  which  are  abundant  in  our  streets  and  parks.  The  Nor- 
folk Island  pine,  one  of  our  most  remarkable  trees  in  appearance, 
like  all  those  previously  mentioned,  would  not  endure  the  cold 
winters  of  the  Atlantic  slope  in  the  same  latitude,  and  like  them 
is  never  seen  in  the  streets  of  northern  or  central  Europe,  though 
it  may  be  found  in  some  botanical  gardens  near  the  sea. 

The  pepper  tree  is  common  in  the  city,  but  does  not  become  so 
beautiful  and  grow  so  large  as  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state. 

The  Pittosporum  is  a general  favorite  on  account  of  its  hardy 
growth,  its  dense  foliage,  its  curly  leaves,  and  its  light  yellowish 
green  color,  contrasting  well  witli  the  darker  tints  of  the  other 
evergreens. 

The  cabbage-palm  or  cabbage-tree  (so  called  because  at  a dis- 
tance the  cluster  of  leaves  on  its  thin  stem  suggests  a cabbage- 
head)  comes  from  New  Zealand,  and  like  the  eucalyptus  grows 
better  here  than  in  its  native  land. 

The  date-palm  grows,  but  will  not  bear  fruit  here.  It  is  only 
recently  that  the  value  of  the  tree  for  ornament  has  begun  to  be 
appreciated  here,  and  the  few  in  the  city  are  as  yet  very  young. 

Fan-palms  are  numerous,  but  they  are  often  injured  by  the 
higli  wind,  and  sometimes  by  frost. 

Besides  these  we  have  India-rubber  trees,  magnolias,  English 
holly,  laurustinus,  euonymus,  — all  evergreens.  Deciduous  trees 
are  rare.  We  have  no  horse-chestnuts  or  sycamores  for  ornament 
or  shade;  few  maples,  poplars,  lindens,  or  elms. 

In  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  acres  are  covered  by  thickets  of  scrub- 
oak,  rather  a bush  than  a tree.  This  is  the  evergreen  oak,  Quer- 
cus  agrifolia,  dwarfed  by  poor  soil  and  exposure  to  the  winds.  In 
favorable  situations  and  soils,  as  at  Berkeley,  it  grows  to  be  a 
large  and  beautiful  tree,  nearly  if  not  quite  equal  to  the  kindred 
ilex  or  evergreen  oak  of  Europe,  one  of  the  chief  ornaments  ol 
the  Italian  parks  and  villas. 

Century  plants  are  numerous,  and  there  is  scarcely  a day  in 
the  year  when  one  may  not  be  found  blooming  in  San  Eranciscn 
or  Oakland. 

Among  the  notable  trees,  which  however  may  not  be  the  best 
specimens  of  their  respective  kinds  in  the  city,  are  these:  — 

Loquate  at  818  and  822  Bush. 

A magnolia  at  the  northwest  comer  of  Taylor  and  California. 

A cabbage-palm  at  the  northwest  corner  of  Bush  and  Leaven* 
worth. 

An  araucaria  at  1019  California. 

English  holly,  southwest  corner  of  Bush  and  Mason. 

Norfolk  Island  pine,  northwest  corner  of  Bush  and  Taylor,  and 
northwest  corner  of  Taylor  and  Ellis. 


■SAX  FRANCISCO. 


23 


Date-palm,  Jackson,  between  Franklin  and  Gougli 

Olive,  Turk,  between  Franklin  and  Van  Ness. 

Tulip  tree,  southwest  corner  of  Mason  and  Pine. 

India-rubber,  714  Sutter. 

Ficus  tree,  with  large  leaves,  southwest  corner  of  Powell  and 
California. 

Sequoia  gigantea,  or  mammoth  tree,  in  Portsmouth  Square  and 
Union  Square.  Recognizable  by  rapid  decrease  in  diameter  of 
the  trunk  as  it  rises  from  the  ground. 

Lawson  cypresses  along  diagonal  walks  in  Portsmouth  Square. 

Pepper  tree,  southwest  corner  of  Jones  and  Bush. 

Although  the  Californian  pines  and  cypresses  and  Australasian 
acacias  and  cabbage-trees  are  lacking  or  very  rare  in  Italy,  and 
our  Italian  pines,  cypresses,  and  date-palms  are  few  and  small, 
still  there  is  much  resemblance  between  the  parks  of  that  country 
and  those  of  San  Francisco  in  the  general  character  of  the  vege- 
tation. The  heliotropes,  fuchsias,  and  geraniums  are  larger  and 
more  abundant  here  than  there,  showing  that  we  have  less  frost, 
a fact  that  we  can  ascertain  also  from  the  meteorological  tables. 

Of  American  cities  there  are  few,  and  of  European  cities  none, 
that  approach  San  Francisco  in  the  number  of  yards,  in  the  front 
and  at  the  side  of  dwellings,  filled  with  flowers  that  bloom 
through  a large  part  of  the  year.  Large,  blooming,  sub-tropical 
shrubs,  such  as  cannot  be  cultivated  in  the  open  air,  in  places 
where  the  temperature  is  often  fully  10°  below  the  freezing-point, 
are  here  abundant;  including  fuchsias,  brugmansias,  heliotropes, 
French  roses,  flowering  verbenas,  and  geraniums;  the  calla  lily, 
though  of  a different  class,  deserves  to  be  mentioned  with  them. 
Many  of  the  flowers  of  New  York  and  Illinois  are  rare  in  Cal- 
ifornia, and  most  of  our  flowers  cannot  live  there,  in  the  open 
air,  through  the  winter. 

A Great  Seaport. — San  Francisco  is  a great  seaport,  send- 
ing many  large  cargoes  to  distant  countries,  receiving  others  in 
return,  and  almost  monopolizing  the  foreign  commerce  of  the  coast 
north  of  Mexico.  Every  ocean  steamer  line  touching  our  conti- 
nent, between  Sitka  and  Panama,  has  its  terminus  here.  She  is 
the  only  point  which  a traveler  cannot  avoid  when  passing  round 
the  globe  by  regular  lines  of  steam  communication.  She  is  the 
chief  center  of  the  railroads  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Her 
exports,  including  treasure,  exceed  $100,000,000  annually.  The 
bulk  of  the  precious  metals  turned  out  by  the  mines  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Nevada  since  1848,  amounting  in  value  to  nearly 
$2,000,000,000,  has  been  forwarded  to  San  Francisco.  Much  of 
it  has  been  produced  by  mines  owned  here,  and  it  has,  therefore, 
helped  to  enrich  the  city.  The  most  active  of  all  stock  mar- 
kets was  that  in  which  the  shares  of  the  Nevada  mines  wera 
sold  from  1871  to  1877,  while  the  Comstock  Lode  was  in  its  most 
productive  condition.  San  Francisco  has  one  fifth  of  the  popu- 
lation and  one  third  of  the  wealth,  and  owns  most  of  the  bank- 
ing capital,  rich  mines,  and  railroads  of  the  Coast.  She  counts 


24 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


more  than  50  millionaires  among  her  citizens;  she  has  a large 
share  of  the  manufacturing  industry  of  the  slope;  and  has  the 
only  sugar  refineries,  paint-mills,  glass-works,  brass  foundries, 
and  the  largest  rolling-mills,  foundries,  machine-shops,  woolen- 
mills,  and  factories  for  the  production  of  clothing,  shoes,  gloves, 
harness,  cigars,  furniture,  carriages,  and  woodenware.  Her 
vicinity  is  more  densely  populated,  and  yields  more  valuable 
agricultural  produce,  in  proportion  to  area,  than  any  other  part 
of  the  slope. 

A Pleasure  Resort.  — A metropolis  is  necessarily,  to  some 
extent,  a pleasure  resort.  It  combines  many  attractions  which 
cannot  be  found  in  small  towns.  Within  a little  space  it  hais  a 
large  number  of  men  eminently  successful  as  bankers,  under- 
writers, merchants,  lawyers,  editors,  manufacturers,  and  con- 
tractors. It  is  a center  of  intellectual  and  fashionable  society, 
ot  musical,  dramatic,  and  pictorial  art,  and  of  educational  influ- 
ences. It  has  commodious  hotels,  in  which  the  stranger  can  live 
with  comfort,  and  public  amusements  to  occupy  his  attention 
every  evening  in  the  year.  In  all  these  respects  San  Francisco 
is  not  inferior  to  other  metropolitan  cities.  Her  cool  summer 
attracts  those  who  dislike  intense  heat;  her  warm  winter  attracts 
those  who  seek  a refuge  from  intense  cold.  Extensive  portions 
of  our  slope  are  so  wild  that  the  metropolis  appears  the  more 
brilliant  by  contrast  with  them.  As  a pleasure  resort,  no  city 
on  our  continent  is  entitled  to  so  high  a position. 

There  are  no  nationalities  in  Europe,  and  few  in  the  world, 
without  representatives  in  San  Francisco.  Her  inhabitants  are 
not  marked  by  the  staid  habits,  grave  demeanor,  and  cautious 
reserve  of  older  communities.  The  enterprise  and  intelligence 
of  many  races  are  blended  among  her  population,  and  the  dull, 
the  slothful,  and  the  faint-hearted  seldom  find  here  an  abiding- 
place.  There  is  probably  no  city  in  the  Union  where  so  many 
men,  starting  in  life  with  no  capital  but  their  own  brains  and 
industry,  have  achieved  a marked  success;  and  there  are  few 
better  fields  for  honest,  well-directed  effort  than  can  be  found  to- 
day in  the  metropolis  of  this  coast.  The  wages  of  labor  are  still 
15  to  30  per  cent  higher  than  on  the  other  side  of  the  continent, 
and  50  to  100  per  cent  higher  than  in  European  cities;  while  the 
cost  of  living  is  lower  than  in  either.  There  are  few  parts  of  the 
world  where  money  can  be  earned  so  easily  or  will  purchase  so 
much. 

The  Streets.  — The  visitor  usually  lands  in  San  Francisco  at 
the  foot  of  Market  Street,  which  runs  about  northeast  and  south- 
west, and  is  the  dividing  line  between  the  two  main  systems  of 
streets.  The  other  streets  cross  at  right  angles,  and  are  num- 
bered from  the  water-front,  or  from  Market  Street,  100  numbers 
being  assigned  to  each  block.  There  are  numerous  avenues,  but 
most  of  them  are  in  portions  of  the  city  which  are  not  yet  built 
up.  The  principal  ones  are  Montgomery  Avenue,  which  connects 
Montgomery  Street  with  the  northern  portion  of  the  city,  aa. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


25 


Van  Ness  Avenue,  125  feet  wide,  and  containing  some  very  hand- 
some residences,  extending  from  Market,  just  beyond  Eleventh 
Street,  in  a northerly  direction  towards  Black  Point.  The  prin- 
cipal wholesale  houses  of  the  city  are  north  of  Market  Street,  on 
Sansome,  Battery,  Front,  and  Davis,  and  the  streets  that  inter- 
sect them  at  right  angles;  the  territory  between  First  Street  and 
the  water-front,  south  of  Market,  is  mainly  occupied  by  iron 
foundries,  machine-shops,  planing-mills,  and  lumber-yards.  Most 
of  the  banks,  insurance  companies,  and  offices  are  located  on 
Montgomery  or  California  Streets,  and  a few  on  Sansome  Street. 
The  principal  retail  stores  are  on  Kearny  Street,  the  southern 
portion  of  Montgomery  Street,  and  the  part  of  Market  Street 
lying  between  Second  and  Fifth. 

Architecture.  — The  business  portions  of  San  Francisco  con- 
tain many  handsome  and  imposing  structures,  and  year  by  yeal 
the  wooden  buildings  that  form  the  landmarks  of  earlier  days 
are  being  crowded  out  by  substantial  brick  and  iron  edifices. 
The  residence  quarters,  however,  are  occupied  almost  exclusively 
by  wooden  houses,  the  mild  climate  and  the  liability  to  earth- 
quakes giving  them  the  preference  over  any  other  description  of 
dwelling.  On  Van  Ness  Avenue,  and  the  streets  lying  to  the 
west  of  it,  the  visitor  may  see  a larger  number  of  handsome 
wooden  residences  than  he  will  find  elsewhere  within  the  same 
space  in  any  city  in  the  world. 

The  objection  of  combustibility  is  greater  elsewhere  than  here, 
because  the  redwood,  which  is  used  for  weather-boarding,  shin- 
gles, window  and  door  frames,  and  most  of  the  inside  finish, 
burns  with  so  little  heat,  and  absorbs  water  so  readily,  that  a 
fire  in  it  can  be  extinguished  with  relative  ease.  In  thirty  years 
the  city  has  not  had  a great  conflagration,  and  the  largest  losses 
by  fire  in  that  period  have  been  in  brick  buildings. 

The  superior  facility  for  shaping  wood,  and  the  abundance  of 
machinery  for  planing  and  molding,  has  led  to  the  adoption  of 
more  architectural  ornamentation  here  than  in  any  other  city. 
The  visitor  from  the  East  is  at  once  impressed  by  the  rarity  of 
plain  exteriors  in  the  dwellings  of  the  wealthy.  The  unparal- 
leled abundance  of  bay-windows,  constructed  to  catch  the  sun- 
light, makes  this  pre-eminently  the  Bay-Window  City.  The 
houses  are  mostly  designed  for  a single  family,  and  many,  if  not 
most  of  them,  have  small  yards  in  front  for  flowers. 

The  leading  business  blocks  are  built  up  of  brick,  with  the 
front  on  the  ground-floor  of  iron,  which  allows  nearly  all  the 
width  to  be  occupied  for  windows  and  doors.  The  architecture 
is  elegant  and  varied.  The  ceilings  are  high;  the  glass  is  large 
plate;  merchandise  of  the  most  costly  material  and  most  elegant 
design  is  displayed  with  unsurpassed  effectiveness;  and  the  trav- 
eler who  comes  from  Paris  or  New  York  sees  at  a glance  that  in 
many  respects  the  shops  of  Kearny  and  Market  Streets  are  not 
inferior  to  those  of  Broadway  or  the  Boulevard  des  Italiens.  In- 
deed, if  he  comes  fresh  from  the  capitals  of  England  or  France, 


26 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


lie  will  be  astonished  to  see  that  the  metropolis  of  California  far 
surpasses  those  ancient  and  wealthy  cities  in  the  brilliancy  with 
which  its  leading  retail  streets  are  illuminated  at  night. 

Market  Street  is,  perhaps,  the  most  impressive  business  street  in 
the  civilized  world.  Though  inferior  in  some  respects  to  the  lead- 
ing streets  of  New  York,  Chicago,  and  Paris,  still,  when  all  its  fea- 
tures are  considered,  — its  great  width  and  length,  its  numerous 
large  and  splendid  buildings,  its  constant  throng  of  street-cars, 
wagons,  and  footmen,  — it  has  no  superior,  and  so  far  I know,  no 
equal.  Before  the  close  of  our  century  it  will  probably  be 
famous  throughout  the  civilized  world  for  its  unquestioned  pre- 
eminence. 

One  feature  that  the  visitor  will  notice  in  the  prevailing  style 
of  architecture  is  the  multiplicity  of  bay-windows,  which  are 
to  be  seen  in  almost  every  private  house;  and  in  many  buildings, 
as  the  Palace  Hotel,  stud  the  entire  front,  adding  much  to  the 
comfort  of  the-  inmates,  if  marring  somewhat  the  external  ap- 
pearance of  the  edifice.  A large  proportion  of  the  permanent 
population  live  at  hotels  or  in  furnished  apartments,  and  one  bay- 
window  at  least,  with  a sunny  aspect,  is  considered  important 
in  rooms  occupied  by  ladies.  The  sidewalks  are  mostly  of  plank, 
but  artificial  stone  is  rapidly  coming  into  use  in  the  business 
portions  and  fashionable  residence  quarters  of  the  city.  The 
streets  on  which  the  heavy  business  teaming  is  done  are  paved 
with  cobbles  or  rectangular  blocks  of  basalt;  most  of  the  others 
are  planked  or  macadamized. 

Public  Buildings,  etc.  — Among  the  notable  buildings  and 
places  of  a public  and  semi-public  character  are  the  following:  — 

New  City  Hall,  McAllister  and  Larkin  Streets. 

Old  City  Hall,  Kearny  and  Washington. 

United  States  Mint,  Fifth  and  Mission. 

United  States  Appraisers’  Building,  Washington  and  Sansome. 

Post-office  and  Custom  House,  Washington  and  Battery 

Branch  Post-office  A,  1309  Polk. 

Branch  Post-office  B,  Mission  and  Eighth. 

Branch  Post-office  C,  Mission  and  Twentieth. 

Branch  Post-office  D,  foot  of  Market. 

National  Treasury,  Commercial  near  Montgomery. 

Fire  Patrol  Building,  106  Jessie. 

Fire  Patrol  Building,  Eddy  and  Polk. 

Shot  Tower,  First  and  Howard. 

China  Mail  Wharf,  foot  of  Brannan. 

Merchants’  Exchange,  California  below  Montgomei, 

Safe  Deposit,  Montgomery  and  California. 

Stock  Exchange,  Pine  near  Montgomery. 

Wells,  Fargo,  & Co.’s  Express,  Sansome  near  California 

Chinese  Merchants’  Exchange,  739  Sacramento. 

Cliff  House,  Cleary  and  Beach. 

Fort  Point,  Narrows  of  Golden  Gate. 

California  Market,  California  below  Kearny. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


27 


Nevada  Bank,  Pine  and  Montgomery. 

Bank  of  California,  Sansome  and  California. 

Pacific  Bank,  Pine  and  Sansome. 

London  and  San  Prancisco  Bank,  224  California. 
Anglo-Californian  Bank,  Pine  and  Sansome. 

Tallant’s  Bank,  California  and  Battery. 

Hotels  and  Boarding-Louses.  — • These  are  the  addresses 
of  some  leading  hotels  and  boarding-houses:  — 

Palace  Hotel,  Market  and  New  Montgomery. 

Baldwin  Hotel,  Market  and  Powell. 

Grand  Hotel,  Market  and  New  Montgomery. 

Lick  House,  Montgomery  and  Sutter. 

Occidental  Hotel,  Montgomery  and  Bush. 

Russ  House,  Montgomery  and  Bush. 

Brooklyn  Hotel,  Bush  near  Sansome. 

American  Exchange,  Sansome  near  California. 

The  Pleasanton,  Sutter  and  Jones. 

Bella  Vista,  1001  Pine. 

Berkshire,  711  Jones. 

Berest’ord,  N.  W.  Bush  and  Stockton. 

Nucleus,  E.  Market  and  Third. 

Oriel,  1904  Market. 

Renton,  712  Sutter. 

Rossmore,  300  Stockton. 

Silver  State,  S.  E.  Ellis  and  Mason. 

Westminster,  014  Sutter. 

Windsor,  905  Market. 

Theatres,  Libraries,  etc. — California  Theatre,  Bush  near 
Kearny. 

Baldwin  Theatre,  under  Baldwin  Hotel. 

Standard  Theatre,  Bush  near  Montgomery. 

Bush  Street  Theatre,  Bush  near  Montgomery. 

Grand  Opera  House,  Mission  near  Third, 

Tivoli  Opera  House,  Eddy  near  Powell. 

The  Orpheuin,  109  O’Farrell. 

The  Alcazar,  114  O’Farrell. 

Panorama  Building,  Market  and  Tenth. 

Panorama  Building,  Mason  and  Eddy. 

Woodward’s  Garden,  Valencia  and  Fourteenth. 

Dan  Sang  Fung  (Chinese)  Theatre,  023  Jackson. 

Ann  Quai  Yuen  (Chinese)  Theatre,  814  Washington 
Mechanics’  Pavilion,  Larkin  and  Hayes. 

Hall  of  California  Pioneers,  5 Pioneer  Place. 

Mercantile  Library,  216  Bush. 

Mechanics’  Institute,  31  Post. 

Odd  Fellows’  Hall,  Market  and  SeventJ 
Free  Library,  Bush  near  Kearny. 

Law  Library,  City  Hall. 

French  Library,  120  Sutter. 

Bohemian  Club,  430  Pine. 


28 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Union  Club,  Stockton  and  Post. 

Pacific  Club,  Post  and  Grant  Avenue. 

Art  School,  430  Pine. 

Academy  of  Sciences,  California  and  Dupont. 

State  Mining  Bureau,  24  Fourth. 

Masonic  Temple,  6 Post. 

The  Bancroft  Library,  Valencia  near  Twenty-seventh. 

Merchants’  League,  S.  Market  and  Fourth. 

Cosmos  Club,  317  Powell. 

Deutscher  Verein,  24  Fourth. 

Olympic  Club,  111  O’Farrell. 

San  Francisco  Verein,  219  Sutter. 

Churches,  Residences,  etc.  — Mission  Church,  Dolores  near 
Sixteenth. 

Unitarian  Church,  Geary  and  Franklin  (unfinished). 

Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  Geary  and  Van  Ness  (unfinished). 

Calvary  Church  (Presbyterian),  Stockton  and  Powell. 

Trinity  Church  (Episcopalian),  Post  and  Powell. 

Synagogue  Emanu-El,  Sutter  near  Powell. 

St.  Ignatius  Church  (Catholic),  Hayes  and  Van  Ness. 

St.  Patrick’s  Church  (Catholic),  Mission  near  Third. 

Hop  Wo  Joss  House,  751  Clay. 

Ning  Wong  Joss  House,  230  Montgomery  Avenue. 

Kong  Chow  Joss  House,  512  Pine. 

Residence  of  Leland  Stanford,  S.  W.  California  and  Powell. 

Residence  of  Mrs.  Searles  (late  Mrs.  Mark  Hopkins),  S.  E.  Cali- 
fornia and  Mason. 

Residence  of  Mrs.  D.  D.  Colton,  N.  E.  California  and  Taylor. 

Residence  of  Charles  Crocker,  N.  W.  California  and  Taylor. 

Residence  of  Robert  Sherwood,  California  between  Taylor  and 
Jones. 

Residence  of  Lloyd  Tevis,  1316  Taylor. 

Residence  of  J.  B.  Haggin,  1250  Taylor. 

Residence  of  Mrs.  Theresa  Fair,  N.  W.  Pine  and  Jones. 

Mint.  — ■ The  United  States  Mint,  fronting  161  feet  on  Mission 
and  217  feet  on  Fifth  Street,  one  of  the  handsomest  public  build- 
ings in  San  Francisco,  is  built  in  the  Doric  style  of  architecture, 
with  massive  fluted  columns  at  the  entrance.  The  basement  and 
steps  are  of  Californian  granite,  and  the  upper  walls  of  freestone 
obtained  from  Newcastle  Island,  in  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  The 
machinery  is  of  the  latest  pattern,  and  is  equal  in  efficiency  to 
any  used  in  the  United  States.  When  working  to  its  full  ca- 
pacity, the  Mint  can  coin  nearly  1,030,000  ounces  per  month. 
For  the  year  1878,  the  total  coinage  was  $50,186,000.  Visitors 
are  admitted  daily  between  9 and  12  A.  M. 

New  City  Hall. — The  New  City  Hall  on  Park  Avenue, 
McAllister,  and  Larkin  Streets,  is  not  yet  completed,  although 
work  was  commenced  on  it  in  1871,  and  over  $3,000,000  has 
already  been  expended  on  the  building.  The  cost  of  the  entire 
structure  is  estimated  at  $4,500,039.  The  foundation,  which  is 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


29 


of  broken  stone  and  cement,  six  feet  in  thickness,  cost  §600, 000. 
When  completed,  the  main  entrance  will  front  on  a wide  avenue, 
leading  into  Market,  opposite  Eighth  Street.  The  main  tower 
is  over  260  feet  high. 

Hotels.  — The  first-class  hotels  in  San  Francisco  are  the 
Palace,  the  Occidental,  the  Baldwin,  the  Lick,  and  the  G-rand. 
The  Palace  and  Grand  Hotels,  located  on  the  south  side  of  Mar- 
ket Street,  and  on  opposite  sides  of  New  Montgomery  Street, 
are  connected  by  a covered  bridge.  The  G-rand  does  not,  at 
present,  furnish  board  to  its  patrons,  and  many  of  the  guests 
take  their  meals  at  the  Palace,  which,  besides  its  large  dining- 
rooms, contains  a restaurant  where  meals  are  served  to  order. 
The  Palace  is  the  largest  hotel  in  the  world,  and  cost,  with  all 
its  equipments  and  furniture,  about  $7,000,000.  It  is  seven 
stories  in  height,  fronts  275  feet  on  Market  Street,  with  a depth 
of  350  feet,  contains  755  rooms  above  the  ground-floor,  and  is 
capable  of  accommodating  1,200  guests.  The  building  is  solid, 
massive,  and  simple  in  its  style  of  architecture.  More  than 
30,000,000  bricks  were  used  in  its  construction. 

Safe  Deposit.  — Another  building  that  may  interest  the  vis- 
itor is  that  of  the  Safe  Deposit  Company,  on  the  southeast  cor- 
ner of  Montgomery  and  California  Streets,  in  the  basement. 
Here  are  steel-vaults  of  burglar-proof  metal,  and  inclosed  in 
fire-proof  casing,  containing  4,600  small  safes,  built  in  tiers,  each 
one  being  furnished  with  a combination-lock.  Surrounding  the 
vault  is  a corridor,  where  men  keep  guard  day  and  night,  and 
communicate  every  half-hour  with  tae  headquarters  of  the 
police.  Here  travelers,  stopping  for  a short  time  in  the  city, 
can  deposit  money,  jewelry,  securities,  or  valuable  papers,  at  a 
very  moderate  charge  by  the  day,  week,  or  month.  Packages 
containing  valuables  can  be  left  over  for  a single  night  at  a 
charge  of  50  cents. 

Stock  Exchange.  — To  many  strangers,  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting and  amusing  experiences  in  San  Francisco  is  a visit  to 
the  Stock  Exchange.  When  mining  stocks  are  lively,  whether 
they  are  going  up  or  down,  the  conduct  of  the  brokers  seems  to 
verge  on  lunacy.  Their  movements,  gesticulations,  and  shouts 
resemble  the  fury  of  a violent  mob  more  than  the  conduct  of 
sharp  business  men  engaged  in  making  important  pecuniary  con- 
tracts. It  is  difficult  for  the  visitor  to  distinguish,  amid  the 
babel  of  sounds  and  the  excited  gesticulations  of  the  bulls  and 
bears,  a single  word  that  is  uttered,  and  he  will  wonder  how  the 
caller  manages,  amid  the  uproar,  to  note  each  transaction  with 
such  accuracy  that,  though  thousands  of  shares  may  have  changed 
hands,  when  the  list  of  sales  is  afterwards  read  off  by  the  clerk, 
the  caller’s  decision  is  seldom  disputed.  Around  the  oval  is  a 
walnut  railing,  on  the  outer  side  of  which,  on  the  main  floor,  are 
seats  for  spectators  who  pay  for  the  privilege,  and  are  usually 
occupied  by  persons  who  want  to  buy  or  sell  stock.  In  1876, 
when  the  mining  stock  excitement  ran  high,  it  cost  $30,000  to  be 
admitted  to  membership  in  this  exchange. 


so 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


The  building  was  erected  at  a cost  of  nearly  $900,000,  and  is 
over  80  feet  in  height,  with  a cupola  rising  85  feet  above  the 
roof.  The  front  is  composed  of  alternate  layers  of  dark  and 
light  colored  granite;  and  the  entrance  is  flanked  with  pil- 
lars of  polished  granite,  and  floored  with  English  tiles,  the  walls 
being  wainscoted  with  marble.  The  visitor  passes  through  elab- 
orately carved  doors  of  walnut,  that  cost  $1,000  each,  into  the 
vestibule,  on  the  right  of  which  is  a committee-room,  and  on  the 
left  the  members’  private  room.  The  board-room  is  wainscoted 
with  black  Belgian  marble,  above  which  is  a panel  of  gray  Ten- 
nessee marble,  and  above  this  again  a border  of  carved  primavera 
wood.  The  caller’s  desk  is  at  the  farther  end  of  the  room,  facing 
the  entrance,  and  in  the  center  is  an  oval  space  where  the  brokers 
buy  and  sell,  as  each  stock  is  named  by  the  caller.  When  stocks 
are  up,  a visit  to  the  board  is  very  interesting.  The  members  of 
the  board  can  give  permits  for  admission  to  the  gallery. 

Nob  Hill. — A ride  of  less  than  five  minutes  from  the  ter- 
minus of  the  California  Street  cars,  and  the  expenditure'  of  five 
cents,  will  bring  the  tourist  within  sight  of  the  costly  residences 
built  by  the  railroad  magnates  of  California.  The  sum  ex- 
pended in  their  erection,  with  all  the  improvements  and 
furniture,  is  probably  not  short  of  $9,000,000.  Alighting  from 
the  car  at  Taylor  Street,  the  visitor  may  see  in  the  course  of  an 
hour’s  stroll  the  principal  edifices  on  Nob  Hill,  while  enjoying 
a view  that  presents  some  very  striking  features.  Most  are 
wooden  buildings,  and  are  among  the  largest  frame  residences  in 
the  world. 

First  of  these  in  renown  is  Leland  Stanford,  now  president  of 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Company,  and  senator  of  the  United 
States,  and  in  1861  and  1862  governor  of  the  state.  His  wealth 
is  estimated  at  $20,000,000,  made  in  the  Central  Pacific,  Cali- 
fornia and  Oregon,  and  Southern  Pacific  railroads.  He  has 
announced  his  intention  to  endow  a great  university,  to  be  estab- 
lished at  Palo  Alto,  thirty-five  miles  south  of  the  city;  and  it  is 
expected  that  this  will  be  the  greatest  gift  ever  made  by  any  one 
individual  to  the  cause  of  education.  Senator  Stanford’s  house, 
on  the  southwestern  corner  of  California  and  Powell  Streets,  is 
plain  in  its  exterior,  but  large,  and  elegantly  finished  and  fur- 
nished. 

The  house  of  Mrs.  Searles  (late  Mrs.  Mark  Hopkins),  west  of 
Stanford’s,  and  occupying  half  of  the  same  block,  has  a higher 
site,  a more  showy  style  of  architecture,  and  larger  size.  Rumor 
says  the  entire  cost  of  house,  land,  and  furniture  was  $4,500,000. 
Mr.  Hopkins  was  the  associate  of  Stanford  in  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  enterprise  from  the  beginning,  and  made  his  fortune  of 
$20,000,000  in  it. 

On  the  north western  corner  of  California  and  Jones  Streets 
stands  the  home  of  Charles  Crocker,  another  original  associate  in 
the  Central  Pacific,  and  also  enriched  by  it  to  the  tune , of 
$20,000,000.  His  house  is  large  and  elaborate  in  its  ornamen- 


SAX  FRANCISCO. 


31 


tation.  Edward  B.  Crocker,  who  died  in  Sacramento  before 
the  company  moved  its  main  office  to  San  Erancisco,  and  C.  P. 
Huntington,  who  has  resided  for  more  than  twenty  years  in  New 
York,  complete  the  list  of  the  five  original  directors  of  the  com- 
pany. The  three  who  came  to  reside  in  San  Francisco  estab- 
lished themselves  at  the  elevated  portion  of  California  Street, 
and  gave  it  credit. 

On  the  northeastern  corner  of  California  and  Taylor  Streets  is 
the  residence  of  Mrs.  D.  D.  Colton,  whose  husband  was  one  of 
the  directors  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  Company  for  sev- 
eral years  before  his  death.  He  was  not  enriched  by  it,  and  his 
estate  was  involved  at  his  death.  He  had  previously  been  con- 
sidered wealthy,  having  made  much  by  the  rise  of  real  estate 
bought  about  the  year  1S60. 

On  the  northwest  comer  of  California  and  Taylor  Streets  is  the 
new  house  of  James  C.  Flood.  It  is  the  only  building  of  brown 
sandstone  in  the  state.  The  material  was  brought  from  the  At- 
lantic coast.  Mr.  Flood  and  his  partner,  W.  S.  O’Brien,  kept  a 
stylish  liquor  saloon  for  about  fifteen  years  before  they  obtained 
control  of  several  mines  in  Virginia  City,  which,  under  the  man- 
agement of  their  partners,  John  Mackay  and  James  O.  Fair, 
yielded  $150,000,000  gross,  and  $100,000,000  net  in  five  years. 
Mr.  Flood’s  fortune  is  estimated  at  $10,000,000.  He  is  the  only 
one  of  the  bonanza  firm  who  has  erected  a home  in  San  Francisco. 
Mr.  Fair  bought  a lot  on  the  northeastern  corner  of  California 
and  Jones  Streets,  and  began  to  improve  it,  but  his  wife  obtained 
a divorce  with  $4,000,000,  and  work  on  the  lot  ceased.  His  offi- 
cial residence  is  in  Nevada,  which  has  elected  him  as  one  of  its 
federal  senators.  His  fortune  is  estimated  at  $10,000,000. 

In  the  middle  of  the  block,  opposite  Charles  Crocker's  house, 
is  that  of  Robert  Sherwood,  a pioneer  jeweler,  who  speculated 
with  success  in  mining  stocks,  and  now,  according  to  rumor,  is 
worth  about  $4,000,000. 

The  house  on  the  southeastern  corner  of  Taylor  and  Jackson 
Streets  belongs  to  Lloyd  Tevis,  president  of  the  Wells,  Fargo,  & 
Co.  corporation.  He  has  made  about  $10,000,000,  according  to 
report,  in  mines,  banking,  expressing,  money  lending,  and  specu- 
lation; and  is  now  the  leading  banker  of  California. 

• On  the  southeastern  comer  of  Taylor  and  Washington  Streets 
is  the  home  of  J.  B.  Haggin,  who  has  been  intimately  associated 
in  business  with  Mr.  Tevis,  and  is  generally  supposed  to  have 
$6,000,000,  or  more.  He  and  Mr.  Tevis  own  controlling  interests 
in  several  profitable  mines,  and  he  has  a large  tract  of  productive 
irrigated  land  south  of  Tulare  Lake. 

The  residences  of  the  millionaires  of  California  are  not  open  to 
inspection  by  strangers. 

Business  Houses.  — The  Palace  Hotel  may  be  regarded  as 
the  monument  of  William  C.  Ralston  and  William  Sharon. 
Ralston  came  to  California  poor,  became  a bank  clerk  under  C. 
K.  Garrison,  then  partner  with  him,  then  cashier  of  the  Bank 


32 


SAX  FRANCISCO. 


of  California,  then  its  president,  and  after  engaging  in  many 
great  speculations,  and  causing  the  colossal  failure  of  the  bank, 
he  died  on  the  afternoon  of  August  26,  1875,  a few  hours  after 
being  requested  by  the  directors  to  resign  the  presidency  of  the 
bank.  The  circumstances  led  to  a suspicion  of  suicide,  but  no 
traces  of  poison  or  violence  could  be  found,  and  the  verdict  of 
the  coroner’s  jury  was  congestion.  Sharon  also  was  poor  when 
he  reached  California,  and  he  made  a fortune  of  many  millions 
in  mining  and  stock  speculations. 

The  granite  building  on  the  northwestern  corner  of  California 
and  Montgomery  Streets,  erected  in  1853,  is  the  most  prominent 
production  of  John  Parrott,  the  only  one  of  the  early  San  Fran- 
cisco millionaires  who  had  as  much  as  $100,000  when  he  arrived 
here.  The  granite  was  quarried  and  cut  in  China,  and  was  car- 
ried to  the  masons  by  Chinamen. 

The  Lick  House  recalls  the  history  of  James  Lick,  a native  of 
Lebanon  County,  Pennsylvania,  who,  about  the  year  1830,  for 
unexplained  reasons,  deserted  the  woman  he  had  loved,  and 
went  to  South  America.  By  working  there  as  a cabinet-maker 
and  miller,  he  made  $20,000,  with  which  he  turned  up  in  San 
Francisco  in  1847.  He  purchased  a large  number  of  lots  at  the 
cheap  prices  then  prevalent,  and  the  four  lots  on  the  west  side 
e of  Montgomery  Street  between  Sutter  and  Post,  now  occupied 
by  the  Lick  House,  and  worth  $200,000  each,  cost  him  only  $16 
each.  In  1876  he  died,  leaving  an  estate  of  $3,000,000  or  more, 
nearly  all  of  it  bequeathed  by  him  for  purposes  of  education  and 
philanthropy.  Several  years  will  elapse  before  some  of  the 
institutions  for  which  he  provided  can  be  established  and  placed 
in  full  operation. 

The  granite-front  buildings  on  the  northeastern  corner  of 
California  and  Montgomery  Streets,  and  at  No.  420  Montgomery 
Street,  were  erected  by  Samuel  Brannan,  who  landed  in  San 
Francisco  on  the  thirty-first  day  of  July,  1846,  at  the  head  of  a 
party  of  Mormons,  who  had  started  from  New  York  with  the 
intention  of  founding  a Mormon  colony  on  the  shores  of  our  bay, 
under  the  dominion  of  Mexico.  They  were  astonished  and  dis- 
mayed by  finding  that  the  United  States  had  possession  of  the 
country.  Brannan  abandoned  the  Mormons,  became  a leading 
business  man  of  San  Francisco,  and  in  1853  was  regarded  as  its 
wealthiest  citizen.  He  lost  much  of  his  property  afterwards, 
and  is  now  struggling  with  fortune. 

Montgomery  Block,  on  the  southeastern  corner  of  Montgomery 
and  Washington  Streets,  was  built  by  the  law  firm  of  Halleck, 
Peachy,  and  Billings,  who  derived  a great  revenue  from  the  law, 
compelling  all  the  owners  of  Mexican  land-grants  to  sue  the 
United  States  for  confirmation  of  their  titles,  under  penalty  of 
confiscation.  Halleck,  who  had  been  educated  at  West  Point, 
afterwards  returned  to  the  military  service,  and  became  for  a 
time  senior  major-general  in  command  of  the  armies  of  the 
United  States  in  the  war  of  the  Rebellion. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


33 


The  Nevada  Bank  was  built  by  Flood  and  O’Brien  out  of  their 
profits  made  in  the  Consolidated  Virginia  bonanza,  and  stock 
speculations  stimulated  by  it. 

The  buildings  on  the  northeastern  and  southwestern  corners  of 
Montgomery  and  Pine  Streets  were  erected  by  Andrew  McCreary, 
who  began  life  as  a porter  in  a wholesale  grocery  on  Front  Street, 
and  became  a millionaire  by  speculating  in  the  stocks  of  the  Sav- 
age and  Gould  and  Curry  mines. 

The  large  building  at  721  Market  Street  was  erected  out  of  the 
profits  of  the  book  and  stationery  business  by  the  Bancroft  broth- 
ers, who  came  to  California  with  little  capital,  and  now  have  one 
of  the  most  complete  publishing  houses  in  the  United  States,  and 
have  engaged  in  some  very  extensive  and  successful  publishing 
enterprises.  The  works  of  H.  H.  Bancroft,  the  elder  brother, 
relating  to  the  western  slope  of  our  continent,  make  up  the  most 
extensive  series  of  histories  ever  undertaken  by  one  man.  They 
are  prominent  contributions  to  American  literature,  and  possess 
an  enduring  value. 

The  Cooper  Medical  College,  at  the  northeastern  corner  of 
Sacramento  and  Webster  Streets,  was  erected  and  given  to  the 
cause  of  education  by  Dr.  L.  C.  Lane,  a surgeon  of  eminent 
learning,  capacity,  and  professional  skill. 

At  the  intersection  of  Octavia  and  Clay  Streets  is  a small  astro- 
nomical observatory,  erected  and  occupied  by  Professor  George 
Davidson,  head  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  on  the  Pacific 
side. 

The  means  for  the  construction  of  the  Baldwin  hotel  and 
theatre  were  obtained  from  a lucky  investment  in  the  stock  of 
the  Ophir  mine  at  Virginia  City.  E.  J.  Baldwin,  generally 
known  as  “Lucky”  Baldwin,  long  keeper  of  a livery-stable,  and 
not  very  prosperous,  had  obtained  possession  of  20,000  shares 
when  prices  were  low,  and  he  held  on  until  January,  1874,  when 
he  sold  out  to  Ralston  for  8320  a share,  or  §6,600,000.  Within 
a day  or  two  after  the  sale,  the  excitement  culminated,  and  a ter- 
rific collapse  speedily  followed.  Ralston  was  a bankrupt,  and 
Baldwin  a millionaire. 

For  years  Alvinzo  Hayward  worked  under  discouraging  cir- 
cumstances in  a quartz  mine  at  Sutter  Creek,  in  Amador  County, 
and  though  denounced  by  his  neighbors  for  his  persistence,  stuck 
to  the  place  until  it  enriched  him,  and  furnished  the  basis  of  a 
fortune  of  many  millions  for  him  as  well  as  for  his  brother-in-law, 
Senator  John  P.  Jones.  It  may  be  said  that  the  Hayward  mine 
furnished  the  means  for  the  Hayward  Building,  at  419  California 
Street. 

A harder  and  longer  battle  with  fortune  than  Hayward’s  was 
won  by  James  P.  Pierce,  in  the  Blue  Gravel  Hydraulic  mine,  at 
Smartsville,  Yuba  County,  and  the  building  at  317  California 
Street  is  the  result  of  success. 

The  Eureka  Quartz  mine,  at  Grass  Valley,  furnished  to  James 
3 


34 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


and  P^obert  Watt  the  means  of  erecting  the  building  on  the  south- 
western corner  of  Clay  and  Kearny  Streets. 

The  Occidental  Hotel  grew  out  of  the  first  San  Francisco  iron 
foundry,  which  was  so  extremely  profitable  that  the  Donahue 
brothers,  its  proprietors,  became  millionaires. 

The  Russ  House  recalls  the  name  of  a private  soldier  in  Steven- 
son’s Regiment,  who  arrived  in  California  in  1847,  bought  the 
two  lots  on  the  west  side  of  Montgomery  Street,  between  Pine 
and  Bush,  for  $32,  and  after  his  discharge  from  the  service  opened 
a silversmith’s  shop,  in  which  he  bought  some  of  the  first  gold 
from  the  mines  at  $4  an  ounce. 

The  building  on  the  northwest  corner  of  Sansome  and  Clay 
occupies  the  place  to  which  the  ship  Niantic  was  drawn  in 
1869.  She  was  dismantled  and  converted  into  a storehouse,  with 
access  from  the  dry  land  by  a wharf.  After  having  been  burned 
down  in  afire,  a wooden  hotel  called  the  Niantic  was  erected  over 
the  old  ruin,  and  after  that  had  been  destroyed  by  fire  the  pres- 
ent brick  edifice  arose  on  the  site. 

The  oldest  wooden  building  in  the  city,  at  30  Washington 
Alley,  near  Jackson  Street,  east  of  Dupont,  was  erected  by 
Samuel  Brannan  in  1847.  The  original  front  is  now  hidden. 

The  oldest  brick  building  is  on  the  northwestern  corner  of 
Washington  and  Powell.  It  had  only  two  stories  when  erected, 
but  the  grade  of  the  street  was  afterward  cut  down  so  much 
that  two  additional  stories  were  built  under  it,  and  now  it  has 
four  stories. 

The  only  marble  front  is  at  641  Washington  Street.  The  mar- 
ble came  from  Vermont. 

Works  of  Art.  — In  San  Francisco  and  its  suburbs  there  are 
about  a dozen  private  galleries  of  paintings,  including  the  works 
of  many  distinguished  artists;  and  I regret  that  I have  not  per- 
mission to  give  the  names  of  their  owners  and  a list  of  their 
noted  pictures.  The  visits  of  strangers  to  the  dwellings  for  the 
purpose  of  seeing  the  works  of  art,  are,  as  a general  rule,  unwel- 
come. 

Of  public  art  collections  in  and  near  San  Francisco,  the  most 
notable  are  the  State  University  Gallery  at  Berkeley,  the  Nahl 
Gallery,  and  the  Art  Association  collection,  mainly  plaster  casts, 
in  San  Francisco. 

The  Nahl  Gallery,  belonging  to  H.  W.  Arthur  Nahl,  and  col- 
lected mostly  by  his  grandfather,  J.  A.  Nahl,  director  of  the 
Painting  Academy  of  Hesse  Castle,  is  now  on  exhibition  at  723 
Market  Street,  open  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays  from 
9 A.  m.  till  4 P.  m.,  admittance  free.  It  has  150  works  of  art,  in- 
cluding originals  by  Velasquez,  Van  Dyke,  Rubens,  Rembrandt, 
Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Titian,  Rafael,  Domenichino,  Correggio,  Paul 
Veronese,  Guercino,  Guido,  Ruysdael,  Wouvermans,  Spagnoletto, 
J.  A.  Nahl,  J.  W.  Nahl,  C.  C.  Nahl,  and  H.  W.  A.  Nahl. 

The  pictures  are  quite  as  good,  on  the  average,  as  those  of  the  old 
masters  in  European  cities,  and  the  gallery  well  deserves  a visit. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


35 


The  Bacon  Art  Gallery,  belonging  to  the  University  of  Cali- 
fornia, in  Berkeley,  named  in  honor  of  Henry  D.  Bacon  (who 
gave  the  building,  three  pieces  of  statuary,  and  ten  paintings), 
contains  about  73  works  of  art. 

The  sculptures  are:  first,  an  excellent  marble  copy,  the  same 
size  of  the  original  of  Dannecker’s  Ariadne;  second,  the  Genius 
of  America,  or  the  Abolition  of  Slavery,  by  Halbig;  and  third, 
Bathing  Nymphs,  by  Halbig. 

The  chief  oil  painting  is  Washington  at  the  Battle  of  Mon- 
mouth, by  Emanuel  Leutze,  one  of  the  ablest  historical  painters 
of  the  Dusseldorf  School,  and  this  is  one  of  His  best  pictures. 
Other  notable  recent  paintings  are  Susannah  at  the  Bath,  by  E. 
Jacobs,  and  Yosemite  in  Winter,  by  A.  Bierstadt.  Besides  these 
there  are  originals,  or  paintings  supposed  to  be  originals,  by  Ru- 
bens, Rembrandt,  Guido,  Murillo,  Correggio,  Durer,  Claude, 
Eugene  Verboeckhoven,  David  Teniers,  and  Nicholas  Poussin. 
There  are  1,100  photographs  of  ancient  and  modern  statuary 
about  8 by  10  inches  in  size,  the  most  complete  collection  of  the 
kind  belonging  to  any  public  institution. 

In  the  art  gallery  of  Woodward’s  Garden  there  are  three  large 
landscapes  by  Virgil  Williams.  Two  of  these  show  the  Roman 
Campagna  from  different  points  of  view,  looking  towards  the 
Alban  Hills,  and  the  third  is  a scene  from  the  Napa  Soda  Springs, 
looking  over  the  valley  towards  San  Francisco,  with  Tainalpais 
in  the  distance.  There  are  two  marble  busts,  — one  of  Califor- 
nia, by  Hiram  Powers,  a copy  from  his  original  life-size,  full- 
length  statue,  which  is  now  in  a private  gallery  in  San  Francisco. 
Powers  was  accurate  in  his  anatomy  and  careful  in  his  finish,  but 
his  California,  like  other  productions  of  his  fancy,  lacks  action, 
vivacity  of  expression,  and  delicacy  of  feature. 

The  San  Francisco  Art  Association,  on  Pine  Street  below 
Kearny,  has  a collection  of  plaster  casts  from  many  famous  an- 
tique statues,  given  to  the  association  by  the  French  govern- 
ment, and  also  casts  of  the  Elgin  marbles,  the  metopes  and 
frieze  of  the  Parthenon.  The  society  also  has  a number  of  pic- 
tures, and  gives  two  exhibitions  every  year. 

The  dining-room  of  the  Lick  House  has  twelve  large  oil  pic- 
tures, including  Shasta  from  Sisson’s,  Yosemite,  the  South  Dome, 
the  Sentinel,  and  the  Redwoods,  by  Thomas  Hill,  and  the  Golden 
Gate  and  the  Cliff  House,  by  G.  J.  Denny. 

The  office  of  the  Lick  House  has  a view  of  the  beach  and  the 
ocean  at  sunset;  and  the  reading-room  has  a picture  of  California, 
as  the  Goddess  of  Plenty,  painted  in  colossal  size  by  Oscar  Ku- 
nath  for  the  Centennial  Exhibition  at  Philadelphia. 

The  Palace  Hotel,  in  its  parlor  in  the  second  story,  has  a pic- 
ture of  the  Royal  Arches,  by  Thomas  Hill;  and  in  the  reading- 
room  a portrait  of  W.  C.  Ralston,  true  to  the  life  in  feature, 
color,  and  expression,  by  S.  W Shaw. 

The  S.  P.  railroad  ticket-office  under  the  Grand  Hotel  has  a 
Yosemite  picture  by  Thomas  Hill. 


36 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


The  Baldwin  Hotel  has,  in  the  office,  oil  pictures  of  Mt.  Shasta 
and  of  the  Redwoods,  by  Thomas  Hill. 

The  Pioneer  Hall  has  a full-length  oil  portrait  of  James  Lick, 
by  William  Hahn;  photographs  of  James  W.  Marshall,  the  gold 
discoverer,  J.  A.  Sutter,  and  John  C.  Fremont,  and  a marble 
bust  of  H.  W.  Halleck. 

The  Mercantile  Library  has  in  its  reading-room  a large,  unfin- 
ished picture  by  David,  the  famous  French  painter  of  that  name. 

The  bronze  monument,  by  W.  W.  Story,  of  Francis  Scott  Key, 
author  of  the  Star  Spangled  Banner,  in  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  is 
not  yet  complete. 

The  pictures  in  the  panorama  buildings  are  changed  from  time 
to  time,  and  nearly  all  deserve  to  be  seen. 

The  hest  piece  of  out-door  statuary  in  the  state  is  the  bronze 
monument  of  Garfield  in  the  Golden  Gate  Park.  Garfield  is 
represented  in  a figure  ten  feet  high,  when  he  was  about  to  com- 
mence the  delivery  of  his  inaugural  address  on  the  steps  of  the 
national  capitol.  His  position  is  easy,  graceful,  and  dignified; 
his  face  is  a good  likeness;  his  clothing  is  simple  and  true.  The 
pedestal  is  fourteen  feet  high,  and  at  its  base  sits  Columbia 
mourning  for  the  dead  hero.  In  her  hand  is  his  palm-wreath, 
and  her  face  is  full  of  grief.  Her  drapery  is  managed  with  much 
skill  and  effect.  A low  relief  on  the  pedestal  shows  Garfield 
taking  the  oath  of  office,  and  at  the  sides  are  panels  emblematic 
of  his  life.  The  sculptor  is  F.  Happersberger,  a native  of  Cali- 
fornia, who  received  his  art  education  in  Munich. 

South  of  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  at  the  intersection  of  the  lines 
of  Sixteenth  and  Ashbury  Streets,  on  a hill  700  feet  high,  called 
Mt.  Olympus,  is  a group  of  statuary,  cast  in  artificial  stone, 
called  the  Triumph  of  Light.  The  group,  which  is  so  arranged 
that  it  can  be  surmounted  by  a light  of  gas  or  electricity,  was 
erected  by  Adolph  Sutro  as  an  ornament  to  the  city.  The  main 
figure  is  about  15  feet  and  the  pedestal  25  feet  high. 

Churches.  — The  handsomest  and  largest  church  building  of 
San  Francisco  is  the  Jesuit  College  of  St.  Ignatius,  occupying  the 
block  between  Yan  Ness,  Franklin,  Hayes,  and  Grove  Streets. 
A large  part  of  the  structure  is  used  for  educational  purposes. 
The  church  hall  is  200  feet  long,  and  will  accommodate  6,000  peo- 
ple. Over  the  altar  is  a large  oil  picture  by  Tojetti,  representing 
St.  Ignatius  Loyola  at  his  reception  in  heaven.  The  spires  are 
275  feet  high,  the  highest  in  California.  St.  Patrick’s  (Catholic) 
Church  on  Mission  Street,  near  Third,  has  a chime  of  bells  pre- 
sented by  Peter  Donahue,  and  the  largest  organ  in  California. 
St.  Mary’s  (Catholic)  Cathedral  has  a picture  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception,  by  Capatti,  not  a work  of  great  merit.  The  Syna- 
gogue Emanu-El,  on  Sutter  Street,  near  Powell,  is  one  of  the 
finest  buildings  of  its  kind  on  our  continent.  The  Catholic 
Cathedral  on  Van  Ness  and  Geary  Streets,  and  the  Unitarian 
Church  on  Geary  and  Franklin,  will  presumably  be  handsome 
structures. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


37 


The  oldest  building  in  San  Francisco,  and  the  one  most  notable 
considered  historically,  is  the  Mission  Church,  on  the  corner  of 
Dolores  and  Sixteenth  Streets.  The  mission  was  founded 
October  8,  1776,  and  we  have  no  record  of  the  time  when  the 
structure  was  commenced  or  finished,  but  the  date  of  completion 
was  probably  not  earlier  than  1786.  The  adobe  walls  are  three 
feet  thick,  resting  on  a low  foundation  of  rough  stone,  not  laid  in 
mortar;  and  the  roof  was  covered  with  heavy  semi-cylindrical 
tiles.  The  floor  was  of  earth,  except  near  the  altar,  and  the  entire 
structure  was  rude  in  character.  The  walls  remain,  a shingle 
roof  gives  better  protection  against  the  rains  than  the  tiles  ever 
did,  and  the  church  is  still  used  for  purposes  of  worship.  Ad- 
joining it  is  the  old  Mission  Cemetery,  not  used  for  purposes  of 
interment  since  1858.  Most  of  the  inscriptions  are  in  Spanish, 
and  among  the  tombs  are  those  of  James  P.  Casey,  an  ex-convict 
from  the  New  York  penitentiary  at  Sing  Sing,  executed  in  1856 
by  the  Vigilance  Committee  for  murder.  He  was  one  of  a gang 
of  unscrupulous  ballot-box  stutters  who  disgraced  San  Francisco 
from  1852  to  1856.  His  monument  prays  for  mercy  to  his  “per- 
secutors,” but  does  not  suggest  his  own  crimes.  The  grave  of 
Don  Luis  Arguello,  the  first  governor  of  California  under  the 
Mexican  dominion,  is  also  here. 

Clubs  and  Libraries. — San  Francisco  has  seven  public 
libraries,  with  about  200,000  volumes  in  the  aggregate.  The 
principal  of  these  are  the  Free,  the  Law,  the  Mercantile,  the 
Mechanics’,  the  Odd  Fellows’,  the  San  Francisco  Verein,  and 
the  French.  The  largest  is  the  Mercantile  with  60,000  volumes. 
There  are  half  a dozen  clubs,  including  the  Pacific,  the  Union,  the 
Bohemian  (including  many  journalists  and  artists),  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Verein  (German),  the  Ligue  Nationale  Fran^'aise  (French), 
the  Society  of  California  Pioneers  (membership  is  limited  to  those 
who  arrived  in  California  before  January  1,  1850,  and  their 
descendants),  the  Society  of  Territorial  Pioneers  (membership 
limited  to  those  who  came  before  September  9,  1850),  and  the 
various  German  Turnvereins.  The  city  has  German,  French, 
British,  Italian,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  Scandinavian,  Swiss,  and 
Dalmatian  societies  of  mutual  aid,  and  many  of  them  render 
assistance  to  poor  immigrants  of  their  respective  nationalities. 

San  Francisco  Drives.  ■ — Among  the  drives  in  San  Fran- 
cisco most  worthy  of  attention  are  the  following:  — 

1.  The  Golden  Gate  Park. 

2.  The  Hill  Park. 

3.  The  Cliff  House,  which  can  be  reached  either  through  the 
Park  or  by  way  of  Geary  Street. 

4.  The  beach,  accessible  by  Geary  Street  or  through  the  Golden 
Gate  Park.  This  beach  is  three  miles  long,  and  is  in  the  best 
condition  for  driving  at  low  tide,  wet  sand  being  much  more 
compact  than  is  dry. 

5.  The  Mission  Pass  Road,  leading  from  the  mouth  of  Merced 
Creek  (the  outlet  of  Lake  Merced)  eastward  to  Market  Street, 


38 


SAN  FKANCISCO. 


across  the  hills,  and  surmounting  the  ridge  at  Mission  Pass  which 
is  600  feet  high,  has  a good  view  of  the  city  and  hay.  After 
leaving  the  ocean,  this  road,  for  nearly  a mile,  follows  Merced 
Creek,  and  a mile  and  a half  from  the  beach  is  the  Ocean  House, 
near  the  bank  of  Lake  Merced,  which  is  shaped  like  a V,  one  arm 
being  a mile  and  the  other  a mile  and  a half  long,  the  average 
width  being  about  a sixth  of  a mile.  The  water  is  fresh,  and 
when  the  reservoirs  of  the  Spring  Valley  Company,  in  San  Mateo 
County,  threatened  to  run  short,  has  been  pumped  up  to  furnish 
part  of  the  water  supply  of  San  Francisco. 

6.  Lone  Mountain  Cemetery. 

7.  The  Almshouse  Road.  This  leads  southward  from  the 
middle  of  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  by  way  of  the  Lake  Honda 
Reservoir,  and  southeastward  to  the  Mission  Pass  Road. 

8.  The  road  from  the  Golden  Gate  Park  southwestward  to  the 
Ocean  House.  This  road  has  no  attractions,  and  part  of  it  has 
been  covered  with  drifting  sand. 

9.  The  Presidio  Reservation  roads. 

10.  Along  the  water-front,  from  Powell  Street  to  the  South  San 
Francisco  13ry  Dock,  including  a visit  to  the  rolling-mill  at 
Potrero  Point.  A rolling-mill,  for  a person  who  has  never  seen 
one,  is  a very  interesting  sight. 

11.  A drive  to  the  top  of  Mt.  San  Bruno,  ascending  at  the 
northwestern  corner  of  the  mountain.  The  summit  (seven  miles 
from  the  New  City  Hall  in  San  Mateo  County,  and  1,325  feet 
high)  cannot  be  reached  with  a wagon,  but  the  distance  to  walk 
is  not  more  than  a cpiarter  of  a mile.  There  is  no  shade  on  the 
mountain,  and  the  chief  attractions  are  its  elevation  and  accessi- 
bility. From  the  Baden  station  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad, 
the  distance  to  the  mountain-top  is  about  two  miles. 

The  most  attractive  drives  in  adjacent  counties  near  enough  to 
be  enjoyed  without  absence  from  the  city  over  night  are  Pilarci- 
tos  Reservoir,  San  Mateo  Canyon,  the  vicinity  of  Belmont,  the 
vicinity  of  Menlo  Park,  and  La  Honda,  in  San  Mateo  County; 
Penitencia  Canyon  and  Pacific  Congress  Springs,  in  Santa  Clara; 
Berkeley,  Wild  Cat  Canyon,  the  Fish  Ranch,  San  Pablo  Canyon, 
Piedmont,  the  circuit  of  Piedmont  Hill,  Moraga  Valley,  Hay- 
wards, the  Laundry  Farm,  and  the  Oakland  Cemetery,  in  Ala- 
meda County;  Alhambra  Valley,  in  Contra  Costa  County; 
Blithedale,  White’s  Hill,  Nicasio,  by  the  Petaluma  road,  and. 
Ross  Valley,  by  the  hill  from  San  Rafael,  in  Marin  County; 
Napa  Soda  Springs,  in  Napa  County;  and  the  Sonoma  vineyards, 
in  Sonoma  County.  Many  of  these  places  are  accessible  to  good 
walkers,  who  leave  the  city  in  the  morning  and  return  in  the 
evening.  Among  the  points  within  reach  from  San  Francisco 
without  staying  away  more  than  one  night  are,  Mt.  Diablo,  Mt. 
Hamilton,  Mt.  Tamalpais  (by  horseback),  Mt.  St.  Helena  (by 
horseback),  the  Magnetic  Springs,  Pescadero,  Howell  Mountain, 
Pope  Valley,  Bolinas,  and  the  petrified  forest  of  Sonoma.  Of 
these  drives  in  adjacent  counties,  mention  will  be  made  hereafter. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


39 


San  Francisco  Picnic  Grounds.  — The  places  preferred 
for  picnics  by  the  San  Francisco  people  are  Woodward’s  Gar- 
den, the  Harbor  View  Garden  and  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  and 
the  Ocean  Beach,  in  the  city;  Badger’s  Park,  Shell  Mound 
Park,  Berkeley,  Piedmont,  and  Strawberry  Canyon,  in  Alameda 
County;  Fairfax  Park,  Laurel  Grove,  Lagunitas  Station,  and 
Sausalito  Canyon,  in  Marin  County;  and  Belmont,  in  San  Mateo 
County.  Woodward’s  Garden,  Harbor  View,  Badger’s  Park, 
and  Shell  Mound  Park  are  usually  crowded  on  Sunday  in  the 
summer,  so  that  quiet  people  prefer  to  go  there  on  week  days. 
On  pleasant  Sundays  in  the  summer,  the  Lone  Mountain  Ceme- 
tery, the  Golden  Gate  Park,  and  the  Alameda  Baths  attract  large 
numbers  of  visitors. 

Golden  Gate  Park.  — San  Francisco  has  several  public 
parks,  the  largest  being  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  three  miles  long 
and  half  a mile  wide,  with  an  area  of  1,013  acres.  It  extends 
from  the  ocean  beach  eastward  to  Stanyan  Street;  and  from  that 
street  to  Baker,  two  thirds  of  a mile,  there  is  an  avenue  500  feet 
wide.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  city  parks.  The  New  York 
Central  Park  has  862  acres;  Fairmount  Park,  at  Philadelphia, 
2,706;  Druid  Hill  Park,  at  Baltimore,  550;  Prospect  Park,  Brook- 
lyn, 550;  Hyde  Park,  London,  389;  Regent’s  Park,  473;  and  the 
Bois  de  Boulogne,  near  Paris,  2, 158  acres.  There  are  several 
large  English  parks  not  far  from  London.  Cincinnati  and  St. 
Louis  have  no  large  parks.  The  improvement  of  the  Golden 
Gate  Park  was  commenced  in  1874,  and  in  intervening  years 
about  $850,000  was  spent  in  its  improvement.  The  greater 
portion  of  its  area  was  bare  sand  dune;  and  to  fix  the  drifting 
sands,  to  obtain  good  soil,  and  to  make  trees  grow,  under  the 
strong  breezes  of  the  Golden  Gate,  were  not  easy  tasks.  A very 
respectable  success  was  made,  and  San  Francisco  can  boast  that, 
in  some  respects,  her  park  is  unequaled.  The  mountain  sur- 
roundings are  beautiful.  The  Peaks  west  of  the  Mission  are 
only  a mile  distant,  and  are  925  feet  high.  Strawberry  Hill, 
within  the  limits  of  the  Park,  has  an  elevation  of  426  feet,  and 
Lone  Mountain  in  the  vicinity  of  468.  There  are  places  in  the 
Park  from  which  Mt.  Diablo,  Mt.  Tamalpais,  and  the  Golden 
Gate  can  be  seen.  The  Park  fronts  on  the  ocean  for  half  a mile; 
and  the  beach,  for  a length  of  two  miles,  is  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive of  all  beaches.  The  surf  there  is  always  beautiful,  and 
often  grand. 

The  drives  in  the  Park  are  numerous,  and  in  excellent  condi- 
tion. They  are  hard,  smooth,  free  from  dust  in  summer  and 
from  mud  in  winter.  In  laying  them  out,  the  natural  undula- 
tions of  the  ground  were  used  with  much  skill,  so  that  they 
should  wind  about,  with  gentle  ascents  and  descents,  as  well  as 
level  stretches,  and  obtain  a succession  of  pleasing  landscapes. 
Trees,  mostly  eucalyptus,  Monterey  cypress,  and  Monterey  pine, 
have  been  planted  out  in  large  numbers;  and  if  their  growth  has 
not  been  so  rapid  or  beautiful  as  in  the  fertile  valleys  of  the 


40 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


state,  it  has,  nevertheless,  done  much  to  beautify  the  place,  and 
give  shelter  against  the  winds. 

Near  the  eastern  end  of  the  Park,  where  nature  had  provided 
a small  area  of  fertile  soil,  in  what  was  formerly  known  as  Sans 
Souci  Valley,  are  a number  of  plats  planted  with  flowers  and 
ornamental  plants,  with  intervening  patches  of  grass  and  clumps 
of  trees.  Between  250,000  and  300,000  trees  or  shrubs  are  now 
in  various  stages  of  growth.  A considerable  portion  of  the 
ground  has  been  graded,  and  sown  with  suitable  grasses;  and  by 
the  aid  of  plentiful  irrigation,  fine  grass-plats  and  flower-beds 
have  been  formed.  There  are  also  several  grottos,  arbors,  and 
artificial  mounds,  and  numerous  rustic  seats. 

On  a plateau  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from  the  entrance  of 
the  Park  is  a conservatory  250  feet  in  length,  the  main  attrac- 
tions of  which  are  the  orchid  house,  which  is  not  yet  fully 
stocked,  but  contains  some  handsome  plants,  and  the  fernery, 
where  is  a fine  specimen  of  the  Victoria  Regia,  or  Amazon  Water 
Lily,  some  of  its  leaves  being  six  feet  across.  There  are  many 
miles  of  drive  and  walk  laid  out  in  the  Park,  and  the  main  ave- 
nues are  kept  well  watered  every  day  during  the  dry  season. 
The  favorite  drive  leads  down  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  brings 
the  visitor  in  sight  of  the  sea  within  less  than  a mile  from  the 
entrance.  The  Geary  Street  cars,  which  start  at  intervals  of 
three  minutes  from  the  junction  of  Geary,  Market,  and  Kearny 
Streets,  will  convey  the  visitor  to  the  Park  in  about  twenty 
minutes  for  a five-cent  fare.  Southward  two  blocks  from  the 
eastern  end  of  the  wide  portion  of  Park  Avenue  is  the  Hill  Park, 
which  is  half  a mile  long  from  northeast  to  southwest,  and  a 
quarter  of  a mile  wide,  with  an  area  of  about  160  acres.  An 
elevation  of  570  feet  at  the  highest  point  commands  an  extensive 
view  of  the  city,  bay,  and  ocean,  and  gives  it  some  attractions 
not  to  be  found  in  any  other  public  park. 

Presidio  Reservation.  — Fronting  on  the  Golden  Gate  for 
two  miles  on  each  side  of  Fort  Point,  and  extending  southward 
nearly  two  miles  from  the  Point,  with  an  area  of  about  1,500 
acres,  is  the  Presidio  Reservation,  the  property  of  the  national 
government,  established  for  military  purposes.  Presidio  is  the 
Spanish  name  for  a principal  military  station;  and  near  Fort 
Point,  Spain,  and  afterwards  Mexico,  maintained  a presidio,  and 
the  name  has  been  preserved  by  the  Americans.  The  Presidio 
barracks  have  the  largest  military  force  on  the  western  slope  of 
the  United  States.  Fort  Point,  situated  at  the  narrowest  por- 
tion of  the  Golden  Gate,  is  a brick  building,  supplied  with  many 
heavy  guns.  General  McDowell,  late  commanding  the  Pacific 
military  division  of  the  national  army,  made  fine  roads  through 
the  Presidio  reservation,  planted  trees,  and  commenced  other 
improvements,  so  as  to  convert  it  into  a public  park,  which,  in 
time,  may  rival  the  Golden  Gate  Park  in  its  attractions. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  walks  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city  is 
through  the  military  reservation  of  the  Presidio.  Taking  the 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


41 


cars  on  the  California  or  Jackson  and  Powell  Street  line,  the  vis- 
itor should  ride  out  to  Central  Avenue,  and  from  that  point  the 
road  leads  off  to  the  right  towards  the  Presidio.  After  ascend- 
ing a small  hill,  he  will  come  in  sight  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  two 
directions,  and  will  obtain  a fine  panoramic  view  of  the  bay  and 
its  encircling  hills.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  three  roads  meet. 
The  one  to  the  right  leads  hack  to  San  Francisco,  and  after  pass- 
ing through  the  eastern  gate  of  the  Presidio,  at  a distance  of 
about  a mile  from  the  starting-point,  you  meet  the  cars  that  run 
to  the  foot  of  Montgomery  Street.  The  two  roads  to  the  left 
(at  the  foot  of  the  hill)  meet  each  other  at  a sharp  angle,  and 
lead  through  the  barracks,  now  occupied  by  the  First  Artillery, 
out  towards  Fort  Point.  The  upper  one  will  take  the  visitor 
through  the  officers’  quarters,  near  which  the  band  of  the  regi- 
ment, one  of  the  finest  in  the  service,  plays  every  week-day  after- 
noon at  2 P.  m.,  except  on  Thursdays  and  Saturdays.  If  time 
permit,  the  walk  may  be  extended  a distance  of  about  a mile 
from  the  barracks,  to  Fort  Point,  with  its  large  fortress  of  brick, 
earthworks,  and  fine  view  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

Point  San  Jose. — Another  pleasant  and  shorter  stroll  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  city  is  through  the  reservation  of  Point 
San  Jose,  which  can  be  reached  by  the  cars  that  leave  the  foot 
of  Montgomery  Avenue.  The  visitor  should  stop  at  Polk  Street, 
and  from  this  point  the  path  leads  off  to  the  right  towards  the 
reservation.  After  passing  through  the  entrance,  close  to  which 
are  the  Pioneer  and  Mission  Mills,  the  largest  woolen  factory 
west  of  the  Missouri  River,  the  road  skirts  the  grounds  of  the 
officers’  quarters,  at  the  gate  of  which  are  a couple  of  Spanish 
guns  of  very  antiquated  pattern.  A few  rods  farther  you  reach 
a fort,  near  which  are  three  15-inch  Rodman  guns,  the  largest 
ever  cast  in  the  United  States  for  general  use,  the  exceptions 
being  a few  of  20-inch  bore,  made  experimentally.  They  weigh 
about  25  tons,  require  a charge  of  100  pounds  of  powder,  and 
throw  a solid  projectile  of  450  pounds,  or  a shell  of  432  pounds. 
The  site  commands  a very  fine  view  of  the  bay;  and  the  band  of 
the  Second  Artillery  plays  at  the  officers’  quarters  every  Thurs- 
day at  2:30  P.  M.  Returning  towards  the  entrance,  the  road 
leads  off  to  the  right  to  the  western  boundary  of  the  reserva- 
tion, a short  distance  from  which  you  again  meet  the  Montgom- 
ery Avenue  cars,  or  by  following  the  line  of  the  cars  for  a short 
distance  in  a westerly  direction,  the  walk  may  be  extended 
through  the  Presidio. 

Cliff  House.  - — One  of  the  chief  attractions  and  most  famous 
places  of  California  is  the  Cliff  House,  situated  at  Point  Lobos, 
or  the  South  Head,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate.  The 
house  is  a hotel  built  on  a cliff  at  the  edge  of  the  ocean,  and 
perhaps  100  feet  above  its  level.  Within  200  yards  from  the  cliff 
are  seven  rocky  islets  projecting  from  the  sea,  and  these,  or  the 
four  nearest  the  Cliff  House,  are  covered  every  summer  day  with 
sea-lions,  which  are  near  enough  to  be  seen  and  heard  distinctly, 


42 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


for  they  keep  up  a continuous  barking.  The  animal  is  a large 
seal,  sometimes  reaching  a length  of  eleven  feet,  and  is  very 
active  in  the  water.  Thousands  of  them  swimming  in  the  water 
and  climbing  over  the  rocks  offer  a singular  sight,  not  to  be  seen 
elsewhere  so  near  a city.  They  could  easily  be  shot  from  the 
shore,  but  the  law  protects  them;  though  the  fishermen  complain 
that  the  sea-lions  greatly  reduce  the  supply  of  salmon.  The 
name  of  the  sea-lion  in  Spanish  is  lobo  marino  (literally  sea-wolf), 
and  the  Spanish  name  of  the  place  was  La  Punta  de  los  Lobos 
Marinos  (the  Point  of  the  Sea-lions). 

The  Cliff  House  is  at  the  end  of  Geary  Street,  called  also  Point 
Lobos  Avenue,  end  Cliff  House  road.  Near  the  Cliff  House  the 
beach  commences,  and  half  a mile  southward  is  the  Golden  Gate 
Park.  On  a clear  day  there  is  an  unbroken  view  from  the  Cliff 
House  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  for  30  miles,  with  the  Farallone 
Islands  lying  low  on  the  western  horizon,  and  a fine  sweep  of 
the  coast  line  both  north  and  south,  with  a promontory  of  Point 
Reyes  stretching  away  towards  the  north.  Attached  to  the 
house  are  long  sheds  where  horses  and  buggies  are  taken  in 
charge  by  a hostler.  The  visitor  can  take  lunch  at  the  Cliff 
House,  and  afterwards  drive  back  to  San  Francisco,  by  way  of 
Golden  Gate  Park,  which  fronts  on  the  sea-beach,  or  he  may  re- 
turn along  the  beach  as  far  as  the  Ocean  House,  and  return  by 
way  of  the  Mission  Pass  or  the  Almshouse. 

W oodward's  Garden.  — This  favorite  resort  occupies  a 
space  of  six  acres  between  Valencia  and  Mission  Streets,  near 
Fourteenth,  and  can  be  reached  by  several  lines  of  cars.  The 
charge  for  admission  is  25  cents  for  adults  and  10  cents  for 
children.  This  garden  has  many  strong  attractions,  and  as  a 
cheap  place  of  amusement  for  the  multitude  has  no  equal  in  the 
United  States.  It  includes  a menagerie,  with  grizzly  bears, 
Californian  panthers,  coyotes,  lions,  tigers,  kangaroos,  and  many 
other  wild  animals;  a pond  of  sea-lions,  which  should  be  seen 
while  getting  their  afternoon  meal;  an  excellent  aquarium;  a 
conservatory  with  many  tropical  plants;  a pavilion  used  for 
musical  and  theatrical  performances  on  Saturday  and  Sunday 
afternoons,  and  occasionally  for  dancing  and  roller-skating;  a 
gymnasium;  a picture  gallery ; a library;  numerous  amusements 
for  children;  a large  variety  of  rare  plants;  and  a restaurant. 

San  Francisco  Cemeteries.  — There  are  eight  public  burial- 
grounds  in  San  Francisco,  of  which  three  belong  to  the  Hebrews, 
one  each  to  the  Masons,  Odd  Fellows,  and  Catholics,  one  to  the 
city  (used  mainly  for  Chinamen  and  paupers),  and  the  Lone 
Mountain  Cemetery,  as  it  is  generally  known,  though  the  name 
adopted  by  the  company  managing  it  is  Laurel  Hill.  Lone 
Mountain  is  a hill  near  by,  but  not  within  the  limits  of  the 
tract.  This  cemetery,  about  two  miles  west  from  the  corner  of 
Montgomery  and  Post  Streets,  is  on  hilly  ground.  The  soil  is 
sandy,  and  30  years  ago  was  covered  with  evergreen  scrub  oak 
trees,  many  of  which  still  remain,  and  contribute  much  to  its 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


43 


beauty.  The  grounds  have  been  laid  off,  and  the  lots  improved, 
with  great  expense  and  fine  taste.  Costly  and  elegant  vaults 
and  monuments,  and  plats  covered  with  flowers  and  ornamental 
plants  in  excellent  condition,  are  numerous  and  varied.  From 
the  higher  points,  views  of  the  city  and  Golden  Gate  can  be  ob- 
tained. The  vault  and  monuments  of  W.  C.  Ralston,  M.  S. 
Latham,  John  P.  Jones,  W.  F.  Babcock,  D.  C.  Broderick,  Dr. 
E.  S.  Cooper,  Gen.  E.  D.  Baker,  N.  Luning,  Horace  Hawes, 
John  Young,  Judge  Lyons,  Thomas  H.  Williams,  Charles  Mc- 
Laughlin, Thomas  H.  Selby,  Judge  Lorenzo  Sawyer,  Hiram 
Pearson,  J.  W.  Tucker,  Dr.  H.  H.  Toland,  Wm.  Pierce,  Sisson, 
and  Patten,  are  a few  among  a mulitude  worthy  of  attention. 
Sir  Charles  Dilke  expressed  an  opinion  common  among  travelers 
when  he  said  Lone  Mountain  is  “the  loveliest  of  all  American 
cemeteries.” 

The  visitor  to  Lone  Mountain  may  be  interested  in  seeing  the 
Yerba  Buena  (Spanish  for  good  herb),  a kind  of  creeping  mint, 
from  which  the  village  of  Yerba  Buena  (changed  in  January, 
1847,  to  San  Francisco)  obtained  its  name. 

The  Catholic  (Calvary)  Cemetery,  adjoining  the  Lone  Mountain 
Cemetery  on  the  south,  and  a little  farther  east,  in  general  ap- 
pearance is  much  inferior  to  the  Lone  Mountain,  but  has  some 
very  large  and  costly  monuments,  well  worthy  of  a visit.  The 
vault  of  W.  S.  O’Brien  (of  Flood  and  O’Brien)  is  of  polished 
granite,  elaborately  carved.  The  monument  of  Mrs.  Wm.  Sharon 
is  of  chiseled  marble,  and  was  imported  from  Rome.  The  vault 
of  W.  Dunphy,  built  in  imitation  of  the  altar  in  the  cathedral 
of  Notre  Dame,  and  surmounted  by  a figure  of  Hope,  was 
erected  at  a cost  of  $40,000,  if  rumor  be  true.  Other  notable 
monuments  are  those  of  John  Dillon,  Michael  Hayes,  Lynch,  and 
Sheehy. 

The  entrance  to  the  Masonic  Cemetery,  a handsome  and  well- 
kept  burial-ground,  is  on  Point  Lobos  Avenue,  and  on  the  line  of 
the  Geary  Street  cars.  The  broad,  serpentine  walks,  the  foun- 
tain playing  in  the  center,  the  profusion  of  flowers,  and  the  large 
number  of  handsome  monuments,  make  it  well  worth  a visit. 
Near  the  entrance  is  a tall,  castellated  tomb.  The  Brittan  monu- 
ment, a white  marble  obelisk,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a statue  of 
Grief,  and  one  of  polished  Aberdeen  granite,  in  memory  of  Dr. 
Hill,  are  among  the  many  beautiful  decorations.  Besides  these 
are  the  monuments  of  J.  B.  Fargo,  Monroe  Ashbury,  James 
Savage,  Spreckels,  Piper,  and  Garratt. 

The  Odd  Fellows’  Cemetery,  which  adjoins  the  Masonic  burial- 
ground,  fronts  on  Point  Lobos  Avenue.  One  plat  of  2,400  square 
feet  is  owned  by  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  and  contains  a 
beautiful  monument,  on  which  are  inscribed  the  words  “Mustered 
Out.”  The  railing  is  flanked  with  pieces  of  artillery.  On  a 
hillock,  planted  with  trees,  is  an  obelisk,  erected  at  the  expense 
of  $16,000,  in  honor  of  Past  Grand  Master  Parker,  who  intro- 
duced Odd  Fellowship  into  California. 


44 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Chinatown.  — The  Chinese  population  of  California  numbers 
at  least  75,000,  and  of  San  Francisco  about  22,000.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  there  are  in  San  Francisco  13,000  Chinese  laborers 
and  factory  operatives,  5,000  house  servants,  3,000  laundry  men, 
and  1,000  merchants,  storekeepers,  traders,  peddlers,  and  idlers. 
The  female  population  is  about  2,000,  and  there  are  but  a few 
hundred  children. 

Chinatown  proper  — that  is,  the  portion  of  the  city  occupied 
almost  exclusively  by  Chinamen  — extends  from  Stockton  Street 
almost  to  the  border  of  Kearny,  and  from  Sacramento  to  Pacific 
Streets,  including  all  the  lanes  and  alleys  that  lie  between.  The 
most  densely  populated  portion  of  the  quarter  is  the  block  on 
Dupont  Street,  which  is  bounded  by  Jackson  and  Pacific.  Here 
one  finds  himself  in  a labyrinth  of  passages,  where  none  but  the 
Chinamen  themselves,  and  a few  of  the  police-officers,  can  thread 
their  way  with  certainty.  The  main  artery  in  this  network  is 
termed  Sullivan’s  Alley,  and  midway  in  the  block  is  a passage 
two  feet  wide  connecting  Sullivan’s  Alley  with  narrow  lanes 
called  Li  Po  Tai’s  Alleys,  from  the  fact  that  the  greater  portion 
of  the  property  is  owned  by  a Chinese  physician  of  that  name. 
On  the  north  side  of  Pacific  Street,  and  above  Sullivan’s  Alley, 
comes  Ellick’s  Alley,  where  are  displayed  some  of  the  grosser 
features  of  Mongolian  life.  There  are  also  in  this  neighborhood 
many  nameless  holes  and  corners  through  which  the  visitor  will 
not  care  to  pass. 

Joss  Houses.  - — - Of  the  six  principal  Joss  houses  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, one  belonging  to  the  Hop  Wo  Company  is  located  at  751 
Clay  Street;  one  belonging  to  the  King  Wong  Company  at  230 
Montgomery  Avenue;  one  is  at  35  Waverly  Place;  one  at  512 
Pine  Street  (the  Kong  Chow);  one  is  situated  in  a lane  on  the 
north  side  of  Sacramento  Street,  three  doors  below  Stockton;  and 
one  on  Jackson  Street  between  Stockton  and  Dupont.  There 
are  also  many  small  temples,  some  of  them  belonging  to  private 
parties,  and  others  supported  by  the  companies  or  trades  to  which 
they  belong.  The  laundrymen  have  one  of  their  own,  in  connec- 
tion with  which  is  a sort  of  benevolent  association.  There  are 
others  belonging  to  the  cigar -makers,  and  to  different  crafts. 

Except  a few  tinsel  ornaments  on  the  balcony,  and  a figure  or 
two  perched  on  the  balustrade,  there  is  nothing  to  distinguish 
the  exterior  of  any  of  the  pagan  temples  from  the  better  class  of 
buildings  in  Chinatown;  nor  is  the  interior  decorated  with  any- 
thing approaching  to  the  splendor  of  an  Oriental  edifice.  John 
is  too  practical  to  expend  his  hard  earnings  in  erecting 
costly  houses  of  worship  in  a land  where  he  finds  no  abiding- 
place.  The  wealthier  Chinamen  have,  moreover,  an  idol  of  their 
own,  before  which  they  perform  their  devotions  in  their  private 
apartments.  In  the  Joss  house  on  Waverly  Place  are  several 
alcoves,  in  one  of  which  are  seated  three  gods,  forming  a sort  of 
Chinese  trinity.  The  middle  one  is  named  “Yum  Ten  Tin,”  or 
the  “God  of  the  Somber  Heavens. ” He  is  supposed  to  control 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


45 


all  the  waters  of  the  earth  and  above  the  earth,  to  have  the 
power  of  extinguishing  fire,  and  putting  an  end  to  drought.  He 
is  a vegetarian,  and  only  vegetables  and  tea  are  offered  on  his 
shrine.  On  his  right  sits  the  Chinese  god  of  war,  named  “Kowan 
Tai.  ” His  image  may  frequently  be  seen  in  stores  and  dwellings, 
and  in  San  Francisco  he  is  the  favorite  deity,  being  supposed  to 
have  the  power  of  settling  disputes,  quelling  riots,  and  intimi- 
dating the  most  lawless  of  hoodlums.  The  third  of  the  trio  is 
worshiped  as  “ Nam  Hoi  Hung  Shing  Tai,”  or  the  “God  of  the 
Southern  Seas.”  He  is  believed  to  have  the  control  of  fire,  and 
when  Chinamen  or  their  effects  are  rescued  from  the  flames, 
offerings  are  made  to  him  of  meat,  vegetables,  wine,  and  tea. 

In  other  alcoves  are  “Wah  Tair,”  the  “God  of  Medicine,” 
who  holds  in  his  hand  a large  golden  pill,  and  when  invoked  by 
certain  mysterious  incantations  is  supposed  to  cure  all  manner 
of  diseases;  and  “Tsoi  Pah  Shing  Kwun,”the  “God  of  Wealth.” 
The  last  mentioned  holds  in  his  hand  a bar  of  bullion,  and  has 
of  course  many  earnest  votaries;  the  coolie  and  the  capitalist 
alike  bend  the  knee  before  his  shrine.  There  are  other  images 
in  the  temple,  all  of  wood  or  plaster,  and  some  of  them  repre- 
senting evil  deities,  which  are  also  propitiated.  The  gods  are 
never  allowed  to  go  hungry  or  thirsty.  Food,  tea,  and  some- 
times wine,  are  always  set  within  easy  reach.  A large  bell, 
cast  in  China,  and  an  immense  Arum,  are  used  to  rouse  them 
when  their  slumbers  are  too  protracted.  In  front  of  the  altars 
are  incense  jars,  filled  with  sand  or  ashes,  where  are  kept,  slowly 
burning,  sticks  of  lighted  incense,  punk,  or  sandal-wood.  In  the 
Clay  Street  doss  house  are  some  copper  screens,  elaborately 
carved  by  hand,  an  1 representing  scenes  from  early  Chinese  his- 
tory. These  are  offerings  presented  as  donations  by  wealthy 
Chinamen. 

In  the  Chinese  mode  of  worship  there  is  a remarkable  lack  of 
reverence  and  formality.  They  enter  the  temple  as  they  would 
enter  a lodging-house,  chatting  and  smoking,  and  with  covered 
head.  Without  uncovering,  or  ceasing  their  conversation,  or 
even  removing  from  their  lips  the  cigar  or  pipe,  they  approach 
their  favorite  deity,  go  through  the  “chin-chinning  process,” 
(bowing  low  three  times)  as  rapidly  as  possible,  leave  their  offer- 
ing, if  they  have  one  to  leave,  and  go  about  their  business  with- 
out further  ceremony.  The  female  worshipers  are  more  devout, 
often  prostrating  themselves  before  the  deity,  and  giving  utter- 
ance to  their  supplications  with  due  reverence.  The  prayers 
and  offerings  of  either  sex  are  nearly  all  for  some  worldly  good,  — 
for  success  in  business  and  in  gambling,  protection  in  journeys, 
freedom  from  calamity,  recovery  from  sickness,  etc.  They  have, 
however,  a dread  of  purgatory,  and  their  biggest  worship  days 
are  when  they  pray  the  souls  of  their  friends  out  of  that  supposed 
place  of  punishment. 

The  priests  obtain  their  livelihood  from  the  sale  of  paper 
money,  incense  tapers,  and  other  articles  required  by  worshipers. 


46 


SAN  FitAN CISCO. 


It  is  also  customary  for  white  visitors  to  purchase  from  them 
some  trifle  as  a curiosity. 

Connected  with  some  of  the  Joss  houses  are  hospitals,  each 
able  to  accommodate  twenty-five  to  thirty  patients.  Here  the 
sick  are  treated  and  nursed  without  charge.  Few  Chinamen  care, 
however,  to  avail  themselves  of  this  opportunity,  preferring  when 
sick  to  remain  among  their  friends.  Even  the  indigent  sick 
have  a decided  objection  to  being  treated  in  a public  building. 
The  most  interesting  time  for  strangers  to  visit  these  temples  is 
on  the  Chinese  New  Year,  when  grand  services  are  held,  offer- 
ings of  all  kinds  are  made,  and  large  crowds  of  Chinamen  gather 
for  prayer.  There  is  no  special  time  for  supplication,  and  during 
the  day  (at  New  Year),  some  pious-minded.  Chinamen  may  be 
seen  performing  their  devotions. 

Sunday  in  Chinatown.  — Sunday  is  perhaps  the  best  time 
to  see  Chinatown  in  full  blast.  On  that  day  the  many  factories 
where  Chinamen  are  employed  contribute  their  quota  to  increase 
the  swarm,  and  most  of  the  domestic  servants  spend  part  of  the 
day  there.  The  sight  is  an  instructive  but  not  a pleasing  one. 
In  the  Chinese  workshops  there  is  no  cessation  of  toil.  In  the 
multitude  of  their  shops  and  cellars  they  make  cigars,  or  boots 
and  shoes,  or  bend  over  sewing-machines,  with  backs  that  never 
tire.  The  cobbler  is  at  work,  seated  on  his  box  on  the  sidewalk, 
while  a customer  waits  near  by  until  his  shoes  are  repaired.  The 
barbers’  shops  are  still  busy  shaving  and  shampooing  the  polls  of 
their  countrymen.  The  shaving  process  is  elaborate.  The  skin 
is  scraped  and  washed  from  tbe  shoulders  upwards,  excepting 
only  the  portion  of  the  scalp  from  which  the  queue  depends. 
The  queue  is  washed,  combed,  oiled,  and  braided,  and  the  eye- 
lashes trimmed  and  sometimes  tinted.  The  Chinaman,  as  a rule, 
is  very  careful  about  his  person,  and  especially  about  his  ablu- 
tions. The  veriest  vagabonds,  or  thieves,  or  jail-birds  that  hang 
around  the  gambling-saloons,  or  lie  two  deep  on  and  under  the 
shelves  of  opium  dens,  are  cleaner  and  more  decently  clad  than 
many  of  the  Barbary  Coast  denizens  of  San  Francisco. 

Chinese  notions  regarding  the  exclusion  of  women  forbid  gen- 
tlemen being  invited  into  their  domestic  apartments,  but  their 
families  are  visited  daily  by  ladies  connected  with  the  Chinese 
missions.  There  are  many  family  rooms  in  the  rear  of  stores, 
and  the  majority  of  them  are  neatly  and  comfortably  furnished, 
though  in  far  too  many  instances  they  are  overcrowded.  The 
women  brought  here  from  China  are  often  taken  by  their  own 
countrymen  as  secondary  wives,  and  the  children  born  of  them 
are,  by  Chinese  law  and  usage,  perfectly  legitimate.  The  time 
of  the  women  is  occupied  in  needle-work,  the  making  of  fancy 
ornaments,  and  similar  light  occupations. 

The  children  are  healthy  looking,  and  appear  to  be  well  cared 
for.  Their  plump  red  cheeks,  dark  expressive  eyes,  and  intelli- 
gent features  are  in  marked  contrast  with  the  sad,  stolid,  and  in- 
different gaze  of  the  adult  Chinaman. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


47 


One  may  walk  through  the  whole  Chinese  quarter  without 
meeting  more  than  half  a dozen  women;  one  or  two  of  them,  per- 
haps, holding  children  by  the  hand,  and  hurrying  across  the  street 
as  if  they  had  no  business  there.  Young  children  are  seldom 
seen  on  the  streets,  and  never  alone.  In  their  attire  the,  women 
can  hardly  be  distinguished  from  the  men.  Their  garments  are 
the  same  in  pattern,  but  wider  and  of  better  material.  Their 
principal  ornaments  are  worn  in  the  hair,  which  in  front  is  oiled 
and  pasted  close  to  the  head,  and  at  the  sides  and  back  is  some- 
times rolled  and  puffed,  and  decorated  with  gilt  ornaments  and 
lofty  combs.  The  coiffure  of  the  women  indicates  whether  they 
be  married  or  single,  and  is  changed  at  different  ages.  Rings  of 
bone  or  ivory  are  worn  around  the  wrists  and  ankles.  Ear-rings 
and  finger-rings,  gilt  or  of  brass,  are  also  commonly  used. 

At  all  hours  of  the  day,  and  at  most  hours  of  the  night,  there 
is  a kind  of  sluggish  activity  in  Chinatown,  but  late  in  the  even- 
ing one  may  witness  the  most  striking  scenes.  A walk  of  a few 
blocks  from  the  most  brilliantly  lighted  portion  of  Kearny  Street 
will  take  the  visitor  to  the  dingiest  portion  of  the  Chinese  quar- 
ter, where  the  streets  are  narrowest  and  most  gloomy. 

Chinese  Holidays. — Festivals  are  almost  as  numerous 
among  the  Chinese  as  with  the  Russians;  but  there  is  only  one 
that  is  universally  observed  as  a holiday,  and  that  is  the  Chinese 
New  Year,  which  begins  with  the  first  new  moon  after  the  sum 
has  entered  the  sign  of  Aquarius,  and  may  therefore  come  at  any 
time  between  January  21st  and  February  18th.  In  his  mode  of 
celebrating  New  Year,  the  Mongol  is,  in  some  respects,  superior 
to  the  white  man;  he  is  never  intoxicated,  and  he  pays  liis  debts. 
To  be  in  debt  on  New  Year  is  considered  disgraceful,  and  if  there 
should  be  any  laggard  debtor  who  has  not  fulfilled  his  obligations, 
his  creditors  besiege  him  on  the  previous  eve,  and  threaten  and 
worry  him  until  he  has  made  a settlement.  Otherwise,  the  fes- 
tival is  celebrated  in  Chinatown  very  much  as  the  white  popula- 
tion, but  with  a little  more  noise.  There  is  the  same  visiting 
from  house  to  house,  the  same  hand-shaking,  the  same  kind 
wishes,  and  the  same  feasting.  Instead  of  “ Happy  New  Year,” 
they  exclaim,  “New  joy!  New  joy!  Get  rich!”  Friendly  salu- 
tations are  exchanged  on  the  streets.  Cards  of  neat  red  paper, 
with  the  name  of  the  visitor  inscribed  in  Chinese  characters,  are 
left  at  each  house.  The  oldest  friends  receive  the  first  visits,  and 
then  the  more  intimate  among  their  comrades.  Bunting  and 
lanterns  and  placards  decorate  the  walls  and  windows;  bombs 
and  fire-crackers  are  exploded  (the  police  permitting),  and  gongs 
and  kettle-drums  are  beaten  to  drive  away  from  earth  all  the  bad 
spirits  that  may  have  collected  on  the  scene  during  the  past 
twelvemonth,  and  to  usher  in  the  new  year  without  the  presence 
of  any  evil  influences.  Other  Chinese  holidays  are  the  day  for 
the  worship  of  the  dead,  usually  in  the  first  week  in  April;  the 
feast  of  the  goddess  of  Heaven,  in  the  last  week  of  April;  and  the 
distribution  of  moon  cakes  in  the  second  week  of  September. 


48 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Funerals.  — Among  Chinamen  there  is  often  much  apprehen- 
sion that  a suitable  coffin  may  not  be  provided  for  the  repose  of 
their  remains;  hence  a present  of  a handsome  and  well-made 
burial  casket  is  no  uncommon  gift.  At  the  better  class  of  funer- 
als the  body  is  usually  dressed  in  new  garments,  and  covered 
with  a white  cloth.  Different  kinds  of  meat,  cooked  and  un- 
cooked, with  vegetables,  fruit,  cakes,  confections,  tea,  and  wine 
are  placed  on  tables  at  the  feet  of  the  corpse,  and  some  of  the 
food  is  presented  to  its  mouth  by  the  nearest  relative.  Some- 
times fish  and  fowls,  and  even  hogs,  are  roasted  whole  for  the 
occasion.  The  hired  mourning  women,  dressed  in  white,  then 
gather  around,  and  on  their  hands  and  knees  utter  their  lamen- 
tations and  eulogies  over  the  deceased.  Fire-crackers  are  ex- 
ploded, and  drums  and  gongs  are  beaten  to  scare  away  the  evil 
spirits.  The  body  is  then  placed  in  the  hearse,  and  on  the  way 
to  the  burying-ground  strips  of  paper,  in  imitation  of  Chinese 
money,  purchased  from  the  priest  of  the  Joss  house,  are  scattered 
with  a liberal  hand,  in  order  to  propitiate  the  bad  spirits  that 
may  be  hovering  around  the  route.  Paper  money  is  also  strewn 
and  burnt  around  the  grave.  After  the  corpse  has  been  deposited 
in  the  tomb,  and  the  earth  heaped  upon  it,  candles  and  sticks  of 
punk  are  lighted  and  placed  around  the  spot.  The  food,  wine, 
and  tea  are  brought  out  to  the  grave.  A portion  of  them  are 
strewn  about  the  place,  and  the  party  return  to  town  and  con- 
sume the  remainder.  There  are  no  further  ceremonies  until  a 
fortnight  after  the  interment,  when  a day  of  special  mourning  is 
solemnized,  if  the  deceased  was  a man  of  wealth  or  distinction, 
and  especially  if  he  was  a parent.  In  such  cases,  the  ceremonies 
are  very  elaborate,  and  the  memory  of  the  dead  is  perpetuated 
for  many  years.  At  the  burial  of  women  and  infants,  and  also 
of  men  who,  during  life,  were  poor  and  without  influence,  there 
is  little  formality  observed. 

On  the  second  month  of  the  Chinese  year,  and  on  the  twenty- 
fourth  day  of  the  month,  occurs  the  festival  named  Tsing  Ming, 
• — the  pure  and  resplendent.  On  that  day  the  Chinese  believe 
that  the  dead  come  forth  from  their  graves  and  revisit  the  earth. 
Banquets,  including  all  manner  of  delicacies,  such  as  the  living 
delight  to  partake  of,  are  prepared  for  the  ghostly  visitors,  and 
taken  out  to  the  burial-ground.  The  graves  are  repaired,  the 
trees  and  shrubs  are  trimmed,  and  ceremonies  performed  similar 
to  those  held  at  funerals.  The  party  then  returns  to  the  city, 
and  a feast  is  spread,  in  which  all  participate. 

Chinese  Theatres.  — San  Francisco  has  two  Chinese  theatres, 
— the  only  ones  in  America,  — one  at  623  Jackson,  the  other  at 
814  Washington  Street.  The  charge  for  admission  is  twenty -five 
cents  for  Chinamen  and  fifty  cents  for  white  persons,  who,  how- 
ever, if  they  wish  to  be  comfortable,  should  have  a box,  which  in 
the  Jackson  Street  theatre  — the  only  one  worthy  of  a visit  — 
costs  three  dollars  additional,  and  will  hold  from  six  to  ten  per- 
sons. The  performance  runs  from  4:30  till  12  p.  m.,  but  the  white 
visitor  can  see  enough  between  8 and  10  to  satisfy  his  curiosity. 


SAX  FRANCISCO 


49 


The  stage  is  narrow,  without  curtain  or  shifting  scenes,  foot- 
lights, or  pictorial  art  of  any  kind.  A sign  on  the  wall  back  of 
the  stage  with  the  words  Dorn  Quai  Yuen  in  Latin  letters,  an- 
nounces that  this  is  “ the  Elegant  Elower  House.”  Under  that 
sign  are  the  seats  of  the  musicians,  whose  music,  if  that  name 
can  properly  be  applied  to  their  noise,  continues  through  all  the 
plays,  which  seem  to  be  semi-operatic  in  character. 

Two  doors,  one  on  each  side  of  the  stage,  with  their  openings 
directly  in  front  of  the  auditory,  are  used  for  all  the  entrances 
and  exits.  There  is  no  division  of  a play  into  acts,  and  a scene 
lasts  while  there  are  actors  on  the  stage.  After  a man  is  slain, 
he  soon  afterwards  gets  up  and  walks  off.  The  idea  of  a change 
of  place  is  conveyed  by  symbols.  A little  bush  on  the  top  of  a 
chair,  brought  to  the  front  of  the  stage,  conveys  the  idea  that 
the  actors  are  in  a forest.  And  the  street,  the  seashore,  a field, 
and  the  interior  of  a palace  or  a hut  are  suggested  by  similar  de- 
vices. On  the  English  stage,  three  centuries  since,  it  was  the 
custom  to  hang  up  a little  sign  stating  the  name  of  the  town  or 
the  kind  of  a place  in  which  the  event  was  supposed  to  occur. 
As  in  Shakespeare’s  time,  so  now  in  the  Chinese  theatre,  specta- 
tors are  allowed  to  go  on  the  stage  when  there  is  not  room 
elsewhere.  Hie  orchestra  has  half  a dozen  performers,  using  in- 
struments unknown  to  the  English  dictionary,  but  bearing  some 
resemblance  to  violins,  guitars,  drums,  and  gongs.  Their  concert, 
a succession  of  squeaks,  rattles,  and  bangs,  ludicrous  in  its 
quieter  intervals,  and  hideous  in  its  more  violent  fits,  provokes 
wonder  at  the  taste  of  the  nation  which  could  invent,  tolerate, 
and  enjoy  such  discord.  It  has  so  little  of  either  melody  or  har- 
mony that  it  sounds  more  like  a caricature  than  a serious  attempt 
to  gratify  the  ear.  The  acting  is  all  done  in  front  of  the  orches- 
tra. The  play  often  runs  through  several  days,  and  usually 
represents  prominent  scenes  in  the  life  of  some  military  hero, 
noted  in  the  ancient  history  of  China,  — a fellow  of  superhuman 
strength,  rare  courage,  and  wonderful  success  in  all  his  achieve- 
ments. 

Merchants. — -At  739  Sacramento  Street  are  the  new  rooms 
of  the  Chinese  Merchants’  Exchange.  They  are  fitted  up  in  the 
ordinary  Chinese  style,  and  though  presenting  no  special  attrac- 
tion to  the  visitor,  the  business  transacted  there  is  of  considerable 
importance.  A Chinese  merchant,  contractor,  or  speculator 
never  starts  on  any  enterprise  alone.  He  always  has  at  least  one 
partner,  and  in  most  cases  several.  He  makes  no  secret  of  his 
transactions,  but  converses  about  them  at  the  exchange,  and 
often  goes  there  in  search  of  capital  when  his  own  means  are  in- 
sufficient. He  sometimes  applies  to  that  institution  to  find  him 
a capable  man  to  manage  a new  business  which  he  is  about  to 
start.  If,  as  often  happens,  one  be  selected  who  is  in  debt  to 
other  members,  they  make  arrangements  which  will  not  interfere 
noth  the  new  enterprise;  and  the  debtor  is  not  unfrequently  re- 
leased from  his  obligations. 

4 


50 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


Restaurants.  — The  Hang  Fer  Low  Restaurant,  on  Dupont 
Street,  between  Clay  and  Sacramento,  is  the  Delmonico’s  of 
Chinatown.  The  second  floor  of  this  and  other  leading  restau- 
rants is  set  apart  for  regular  boarders,  who  pay  by  the  week  or 
month.  The  upper  floor,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  more 
wealthy  guests,  is  divided  into  apartments  by  movable  partitions, 
curiously  carved  and  lacquered.  The  chairs  and  tables,  chande- 
liers, stained  window-panes,  and  even  the  cooking  utensils  used 
at  this  restaurant,  were  nearly  all  imported  from  China.  Here 
dinner  parties,  costing  from  $20  to  $100  for  half  a dozen  guests, 
are  frequently  given  by  wealthy  Chinamen.  When  the  latter 
sum  is  paid,  the  entire  upper  floor  is  set  apart  for  their  accom- 
modation, and  the  dinner  sometimes  lasts  from  2 p.  m.  till  mid- 
night, with  intervals  between  the  courses,  during  which  the 
guests  step  out  to  take  an  airing,  or  to  transact  business. 
Among  the  delicacies  served  on  such  occasions  are  bird’s-nest 
soup,  shark’s  fins,  Taranaki  fungus  (which  grows  on  a New  Zea- 
land tree),  Chinese  terrapin,  Chinese  goose,  Chinese  quail,  fish 
brains,  tender  shoots  of  bamboo,  various  vegetables  strange  to 
American  eyes,  and  arrack  (a  distilled  liquor  made  of  rice);  cham- 
pagne, sherry,  oysters,  chicken,  pigeon,  sucking  pig,  and  other 
solids  and  liquids  familiar  to  the  European  palate  also  find  their 
places  at  the  feast.  The  tables  are  decorated  with  satin  screens 
or  hangings  on  one  side,  the  balconies  or  smoking-rooms  are  illu- 
minated by  colored  lanterns,  and  Chinese  music  adds  to  the 
charms  of  the  entertainment. 

Chinese  Missions.  — • There  are  several  missions  in  California, 
whose  especial  objects  are  the  conversion  of  Chinamen  to  the 
Christian  faith,  their  education,  the  visiting  of  Chinese  families, 
and  the  reformation  of  Chinese  women.  In  San  Francisco  the 
principal  associations  are  the  Presbyterian  Mission,  800  Stockton 
Street,  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  A.  W.  Loomis;  the  Mission 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  916  Washington  Street,  in 
charge  of  the  Rev.  Otis  Gibson;  and  the  Woman’s  Union  Mission, 
at  the  northwest  corner  of  Jackson  and  Dupont  Streets.  In  con- 
nection with  them  are  evening  schools,  where  classes  are  instructed 
in  the  English  branches  by  competent  teachers.  On  Sacramento 
Street  is  a Home  and  Reformatory  for  Chinese  women  and  chil- 
dren who  have  been  rescued  from  slavery.  The  average  attendance 
at  all  the  evening  schools,  in  California,  is  about  900,  and  the 
number  of  Chinese  baptized  in  the  Christian  faith  about  550. 

Guides  and  Strops.  — It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a guide 
for  the  purpose  of  seeing  Chinatown.  The  usual  charge  of  the 
guides  is  $1  for  each  person.  Many  Eastern  tourists  buy  porce- 
lain, silks,  fans,  and  Chinese  and  Japanese  curios  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, finding  greater  variety  and  lower  prices  than  in  the  cities 
on  the  Atlantic  side.  Most  of  the  establishments  where  they 
make  their  purchases  are  on  Dupont  Street  between  California 
and  Washington  Streets,  and  are  easily  recognizable  by  then- 
display  of  porcelains  and  silks  in  their  windows.  In  addition  to 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


51 


these  houses  on  Dupont  are  other  establishments  of  the  same 
kind  at  640  and  709  Sacramento  Street,  and  521  Kearny  Street. 
At  all  these  places  English  is  spoken. 

W eath.er.  — The  tourist  must  not  expect  to  find  enervating 
summer  heat  along  the  ocean  shore  in  California  north  of  latitude 
35°.  On  the  contrary,  he  may  be  assured  that  the  average  day 
will  be  chilly,  and  that  he  will  need  warm  wraps  when  going  out 
for  a drive. 

The  mean  temperature  here  of  July  is  57°,  or  1S°  less  than  it  is 
in  New  York.  That  means  much.  The  mean  temperature  of  8 
p.  m.  is  about  50°,  and  that  accompanied  by  a strong  wind  D so 
cold  that  a person  needs  heavy  woolen  under  and  over  clothing 
and  active  movement  to  prevent  decided  discomfort. 

The  mean  temperature  of  July  in  the  cities  of  the  eastern  part 
of  the  United  States  is  75°;  and  there  80°  is  considered  an  oppress- 
ive heat,  such  as  is  felt  for  several  hours  in  each  of  100  days  in 
the  course  of  the  year.  The  meteorological  records  of  San  Fran- 
cisco show  that  in  the  30  years  from  1852  to  1881,  inclusive,  there 
were  195  such  hot  days  here,  including  6 in  March,  14  in  April, 
15  in  May,  33  in  June,  17  in  July,  17  in  August,  56  in  Septem- 
ber, 33  in  October,  and  1 in  November.  The  monthly  average  is 
one  half  such  a day  in  April,  May,  July,  and  August;  one  day 
each  in  June  and  October;  and  two  days  in  September.  Our  av- 
erage year  has  only  6 days  that  reach  80°.  October  is  our  warm- 
est month. 

Of  the  days  reaching  75°,  the  number  in  the  year  is  twice 
as  great  as  of  those  reaching  80°,  and  these  are  spoken  of  in  San 
Francisco  as  uncomfortably  warm,  partly  perhaps  because  the 
people  have  no  summer  clothing,  and  are  unprepared  for  any 
variation  from  the  ordinary  cool  temperature. 

For  a drive  along  the  beach,  or  over  the  Mission  Hill  road,  or 
for  a visit  to  the  Hill  Park,  to  the  Presidio,  or  to  the  Golden 
Gate  Park,  it  is  important  to  select  a warm  day,  and  it  is  often 
desirable  to  know  in  the  evening  whether  the  morrow  will  be 
suitable.  Here  are  rules  for  forecasting  San  Francisco  weather 
in  the  summer. 

If  the  western  horizon  between  sunset  and  dark  be  quite  clear, 
there  is  a presumption  that  the  next  day  will  be  warm  and  still. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  horizon  then  shows  banks  of  fog,  or  if 
the  fog  cover  the  city  so  that  the  western  horizon  cannot  be  seen, 
then  expect  cold  and  wind  on  the  morrow.  After  a hot  day  the 
clearness  of  the  western  horizon  in  the  evening  is  a promise  of 
continuation  of  the  heat.  It  sometimes  happens  that  after  a 
warm  and  clear  forenoon  a cold  wind  rises  in  the  afternoon,  and 
brings  fog  with  it  at  the  Beach,  but  that  is  the  exception.  The 
general  rule  is,  that  a brief  period  of  hot  weather  ends  in  the 
evening  with  the  appearance  of  fog. 

From  June  to  September,  inclusive,  we  expect  no  rain,  since 
the  records  show  that  these  four  months  bring  together  only  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  of  rainfall  in  the  average  year.  The  majority 


52 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


of  Mays  and  Octobers  are  dry,  showing  nothing  moister  than  a 
little  drizzle  of  a few  hours.  In  summer,  as  in  winder,  we  expect 
no  rain,  unless  it  has  been  announced  by  a good  wind  blowing  for 
twenty-four  or  more  hours  from  the  south. 

Cabs.  — -The  street-cars  are  so  cheap,  and  run  at  intervals  so 
brief,  and  are  generally  so  clean  and  convenient,  that  relatively 
little  use  is  made  of  cabs.  On  account  of  the  hilly  character  of 
the  site,  Hansom  cabs  cannot  be  used  to  advantage.  The  one- 
horse  vehicles  in  common  use  are  known  as  cabs  or  coupes;  those 
with  two  horses  as  hacks  or  carriages.  Neither  cab  nor  hack 
carries  trunks  on  top;  baggage,  save  that  carried  in  the  hand,  is 
usually  carried  by  transfer  company.  The  San  Francisco  cab- 
men are  like  men  of  their  profession  in  other  cities,  and  some  of 
them  are  extortionate,  abusive,  and  on  occasion  violent.  To 
avoid  trouble  with  such  scamps,  old  residents  are  generally  care- 
ful to  employ  either  those  men  whom  they  know  personally,  or 
those  who  are  in  the  service  and  wear  the  badge  of  the  Pacific 
Carriage  Company,  the  United  Carriage  Company,  or  the  City 
Cab  and  Carriage  Company.  These  companies  have  fixed  rates, 
and  the  men  employed  by  them  are  supposed  to  adhere  to  fixed 
prices  and  mild  maimers. 

The  general  charge  of  these  companies  for  one  or  two  passen- 
gers for  a distance  of  one  mile,  or  between  any  two  points  within 
the  district  bounded  by  Broadway,  Gough,  and  Twelfth  Streets 
and  the  bay  is  $1  for  a cab,  and  $1.50  for  a hack.  The  follow- 
ing is  a table  of  their  additional  rates:  — 


cn  ■ - r,  ...  1 hirst  hour 

Shopping  and.  Calling-  , 

1 1 & ° ( Bach  subsequent  hour 

To  and  from  Theatre,  reserved 

To  and  from  Balls,  reserved.' 

Park  Drive 

Cliff,  via  Point  Lobos 

Cliff,  via  Park,  return  Park 

Almshouse,  via  Park 

Ocean  House,  via  Park 

Black  Point 

Presidio 


CAB. 

HA( 

'k. 

$i 

50 

$2 

00 

l 

00 

1 

50 

00 

4 

00 

. 3 

00 

4 

00 

4 

00 

5 

00 

5 

00 

6 

00 

6 

00 

8 

00 

. 5 

00 

6 

00 

. 6 

00 

8 

00 

, 2 

50 

3 

00 

3 

00 

4 

00 

At  the  livery-stables  a horse  and  buggy  can  be  obtained  for 
$4  or  $5  a day  on  week  days,  and  a two-seated  carriage  with  two 
horses  for  $8  or  .$10.  To  those  who  can  drive,  and  know  the  roads, 
such  conveyance  is  much  preferable  to  a cab  or  hack. 

Distances  and  Fares.  — In  the  following  table  the  distances 
and  fares  are  given  by  the  inland  routes,  which,  though  they  may 
cross  San  Francisco  Bay  by  water,  are  called  railroad  routes,  and 
then  by  ocean  routes  through  the  Golden  Gate.  In  the  matter  of 
fares,  the  cabin  or  first-class  fare  is  given,  and  for  a single  un- 
limited ticket;  but  in  many  cases  the  traveler  may  do  well  to 
inquire  for  a limited,  a round  trip,  or  an  excursion  ticket.  A 
star  attached  to  a figure  indicates* price  for  round  trip.  P.  C., 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


53 


after  the  distance,  means  part  of  the  way  by  private  conveyance. 
A number  in  parentheses  shows  miles  to  be  made  by  stage,  and 
this  is  included  in  the  other  figure.  In  a few  cases  prices  are 
omitted  because  they  have  been  fluctuating  of  late. 


BY  RAIL. 

Oakland  Mole 

Oakland  Sixteenth  Street.  . 
Oakland  Broadway  Station 

East  Oakland 

Berkeley 

Alameda  Mole 

Alameda,  Park  Street 

Los  Gatos 

Santa  Cruz 

Napa 

St.  Helena 

Calistoga 

Marysville 

Redding 

Tiburon 

San  Rafael 

Petaluma 

Fulton 

Guerneville 

Cloverdale 

Benicia 

Vallejo 

Martinez 

Sacramento 

Stockton 

Los  Angeles 

San  Diego 

Gilroy  Springs  (10) 

Glenwood  Springs  (4)  

Harbin  Springs  (21) 

Haywards  ( 1 ) 

Highland  Springs  (28). 

Cazadero 

La  Honda  (18) 

Lake  Tahoe  (14) 

Litton  Springs 

Paso  Robles  Springs 

Pearson’s  Springs  (46) 

Pescadero  (32)  . . 

Pilarcitos  (5) 

Sausalito 

Skaggs’s  Springs  (8) 

Soda  Bay  (38) 

Berry  vale  (Sisson's) 

Tuscan  Springs  (7) 


MILES. 

..4  .. 

. .6  . . 
..74.. 
..9  .. 
.12  .. 
..3  .. 
. .9  . . 
.55 

.SO  .. 
. .46  . . 
.64  .. 
.73  .. 
,.52  .. 
170  .. 
..6  .. 
15  .. 
.36  .. 
.56 

.72  .. 
.84  .. 
.33  .. 
.32  .. 
.35  .. 
.90  .. 
.92  .. 
.482  .. 
666  .. 
.90  .. 
.70  .. 
.94  .. 
.22 

112  .. 
.86  .. 
.47  .. 
224  .. 

. .70  .. 
221  .. 
130  .. 
.53  .. 
.22  .. 
..6  .. 
.83  .. 
.122  .. 
312  .. 
.206  .. 


•ARES. 

15 

.0 

15 

.0 

15 

.0 

15 

.0 

20 

.0 

15 

.0 

15 

9 

15 

.3  50 

.1 

60 

.2  30 

70 

.5 

10 

.9 

05 

.0 

35 

.1 

00 

2 

00 

9 

85 

.3 

50 

00 

.1 

00 

.1 

00 

00 

30 

15  00 

30 

00 

.4 

50 

.3 

60 

00 

.0 

65 

.6 

25 

.4 

75 

9 

50 

20 

00 

2 

75 

9 75 
3 50 


.0  15 
.4  50 
.7  00 
10  65 
.8  75 


54 


SAN  FEAN  CISCO. 


BY  BAIL. 

MILES. 

FAEES. 

Yosemite  via  Raymond  (60). . . 

. . .260  

*$50  00 

Yosemite  via  Milton  (85) 

. . .228  

*30  00 

San  Mateo 

21  

Redwood 

. .. .29  

1 00 

San  Jose 

1 75 

Monterey 

...125  

Alma 

....58  

2 35 

Big  Trees,  Santa  Cruz  County. 

....74  

Big  Trees,  Calaveras  County  (47).  169  

S 70 

Blithedale  (1) 

. . . .11  

Bolinas  (IS) 

.....36  

1 85 

Boulder  Creek 

. . 81  

3 50 

Mount  Diablo  (20) 

55  P.  C 

Mount  Hamilton  (26) 

*7  50 

Mount  Tamalpais  (12) 

....27  P.  C 

Napa  Soda  Springs  (7) 

Pacific  Congress  Springs  (5).  . . 

...60  

2 50 

Paraiso  Springs  (7) 

...150  

10  50 

Camp  Taylor . 

1 35 

Donner  Lake  (2) 

...197  

9 70 

.Etna  Springs  (15) 

....64  

4 35 

Felton 

Fort  Ross  (17) 

....96  

5 25 

G-eysers  via  Cloverdale  (15) . . . 

....99  

*8  50 

Geysers  via  Calistoga  (27) 

. . .100  

*8  50 

Ogden 

Salt  Lake  City 

...870  

42  00 

Denver  via  Salt  Lake  City. . . . 

.1,604  

78  00 

Omaha 

.1,799  

Chicago 

.2,250  

New  York 

.3,332  . 

Lathrop 

, ...  83  

3 10 

Kansas  City 

.2,116  

St.  Louis 

.2,435  

Yuma 

...731  

Tucson 

...978  

45  00 

Benson 

.1,024  

45  00 

Guaymas  , 

.1,375  

El  Paso 

.1,286  

Mexico  City 

.2,510  

105  30 

New  Orleans 

.2,495  

BY  SEA. 

MILES. 

FAKE. 

Santa  Cruz 

$2  50 

Monterey 

...83  

3 00 

Port  Harford 

...195  

S 00 

Santa  Barbara 

..281  

10  00 

San  Buenaventura 

12  00 

San  Pedro 

..365  

14  50 

SAN  FKANCISCO. 


55 


BY  SEA. 

MILES. 

FARES 

San  Diego 

$15  00 

Mazatlan 

70  00 

Acapulco 

90  00 

Panama 

125  00 

Humboldt  Bay 

216  

10  00 

Yaquina  Bay 

454  

12  00 

Astoria 

20  00 

Portland 

20  00 

Seattle 

824  

20  00 

Tacoma 

850  

20  00 

Victoria 

20  00 

Vancouver 

833  

22  00 

Sitka 

1,7S4  

70  00 

Honolulu 

2,100  

Y okohama 

4,525  

250  00 

Shanghai 

6,000  

305  00 

Hongkong 

6,100  

Auckland 

200  00 

Sydney 

7,200  

200  00 

Melbourne 

7,740  

210  00 

MAP  OF  CHINATOWN  IN  RED  ; JOSS  HOUSES  IN  DIAGONAL  LINES 


CAL!  FOR  N I A 


SACRAMENTO 


ST. 


JACKSON 


( (5ft 


FA  Cl  Cl  G 


STOCKTON 


(57) 


GOING  NORTH  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO 

(58) 


( 59  1 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO 


( 60  ) 


, I — ]Wdolpr^^l 1 


BANCROFT’S  MAP  OF  CENTRAL  SAN  FRANCISCO 

I IL^MUnJillLl  U U LlIU  U Lilli  LTLTLJ l_nUJU|U  (J  UIU  LI  LljUjU  U li  U UIU  LI  U U LI  U LI  UP  LI 

I | pi\  □fcpD*cfflsoffiD=D|Dsn  m3  m]p^DpDg[]si5i^5np&ciDai]i]  [771  ogopp 

L W Wrnnrn  * £ * r-,S^  WEBSTER  1 ^ SZFsTKd?  w S gZ  ||  3 


''v  (t)  ^ ^ T'  I "T-  O I-.  *>  | \A/ P RCTCD  f/)  — ij  ^ rn  T ^ ^ Q G G I ctUI  m ■ 1 1 ^ 

^in  olfo  □"□EosDlalDiD  □ d u □®HosofQ  □!□!□  Dprenlm^nTilnr] 

W n 4)  ~ BUCHANAN  | J ^ ? >_°ST,  H - rn  , 


Ssd 


□ □□□ 
,□  □ □ □ 


□ □ u»nt\ 
□ 

□ 


□ □□ 

□ □□ 

.□  □ □ □ □gUSD^® 


BUCHANAN 

□ □□□□□□ 

LAGUNA 

□ DO 

OCTAVIA 

□ □ □ 


□ □ □ 

NESS 

OOO 

POLK 

□ □□ 


— POTR  Eftn  r — 1 ‘ I 1 I 1 

cd  cu  & 

— I I — ] O I I i — i rSI,i 

^NEBRASKA  11 1 >— -I 

IvT^ont  CD  CD  CD  t 

^nCCnlfClD.' 

^■CDD  Cj  [~1  1^- 

. ™ode island  1 — 1 Cp — ■ 

^■Qaq^  ^ ; 

3«SsVt.^  ■ 


clffcjiP 

— PENN.  ST. 

— 1 CJ 

(OWA  St.t^A  N 

C?jN&ic.Tp^ '^CD  C^> 
7TENNps/r— ^ Ed  CD  Id  *a 
_d<ENTUCK  s_s&  gc 
Q D ic5T=: 

3SP  □ n 

□ db. 

CD 


□ □ 

■l-ar-k+n- 

□ D 

HYDE 

□ □ 

LEAVE 

D □ 

JONES 


trmjp 

□ □rfo 

□ □□□ 


□ tfun  □!□]□ 

□ 


D^dtgD 

,Or 


FFLLMORE J | , | 

□ □ Q □pCDp3n*CDlD|[BD 

WEBSTER  m 33— 5 I 7?  2 

’ 1 1 Jr  1 l"^1  «--T >--•-■  r-,-L^,„r-.-np 

L G p □ □□-□  □□!□>□!□  cfo 

" " □ □□ij'dta 

0 □ □ □ DS0 


□ □ □ 
□ □ □ 


□ □ 


□□□□□□ 
□ □ 
□ □ 

JONES 

NCffiOTffi  □ □ 

\\  / ^ -TAVHrO-R 


□ □ □ □ 

NWORTH 

□ □ □ □ 


/ -T'AYIrO-K 

&□□□□□  □ 

' ' MASON 

•SOT  □□□□□□□□ 

\ -POW-Ertt-- 


-POW&Lb 

3m  |7i  g 


'□O03D5D 


□ □ 

2 

□ □ 


□ 


□ 


□ □ □ 0 
□ □ □ □ 
□ □□  0 
□ □ □ 0 
□ □□  D 
□ □ GOD 


□ 


□□□□□□ 

□□□□□□ 

AVENUE  \ 

□□□□□□□□□□ 

□□□□□□□□□ g/ 

□ □□□□□  □ op/ 

□ □□□□□□  rf 

□ □ □ □ □ pd  1 

-.□□□□gi3g- 

□□□□□□ UpfiU □ □ □ 
HP  □ J^Td  □□□□□□ 


□ □□□'□ 

□ □ ufuu 


□ □ 

□ □□□□ 


STbcKTON 

□ 0 □ 

DUPONT 

D&fl 

-K-E-A-R^Y — 

□{a  □ 

■MONTGOM 

Ml  □ 

-SANSOME 

JJM 


□ □ 

iRY 


0 □ 


□ □ 


FRONT 

n-BP  n 
CS  D 


QQDQOCk 

■S'Tr-rrff 


□ 


□ 


□ □□'□ 

ST. 


□ □g'DODGOP 
3o  □ go  unvm  ^ 

□ n n ri*”  


Mu  □□□□□□□? 

□ □□□□□□□  7y 
□□□□□□□ ^ 


Scale  2000  feet  to  3 inch 
2000  feet  1600  1000  600 


10 


1 Teleerraph  Hill 

2 Nob  Hill 

3 Rincon  Hill 

4 Portsmouth  Square 

5 Union  Square 

6 Chinatown 

7 China  Steamer  Wharf 

8 Ferry  Slips 

9 Oregon  Steamer  Wharf 

10  Victoria  Steamer  Wharf 

11  Mint 

X2  Palace  Hotel 
13  Baldwin  Hotel  and  Theatre 
1 jjjje  14  Occidental  Hotel 


j 15  Lick  House  & Mas.  Temple 
j 16  Grand  Opera  House 
17  Bush  Street  Theatre 
1 18  Alcazar 
19  Orpheuin 
| 20  Tivoli 
j 21  Pioneer  Hall 
; 22  Odd  Fellows’  Hall 
j 23  City  Hall 
24  Old  City  Hall 
; 25  California  Theatre 
j 26  The  History  Building 
: 27  Post  Office 


THE  BANCROFT  COMPANY 

HISTORY  BUILDING 

721  MARKET  STREET  + SAN  FRAN6ISG0 


PIANO  DEPARTMENT 

A.  M.  BENHAM,  Manager 

Pacific  Coast  Agents  for  the  following  First-class  Instruments 


PIANOS 


{ HENRY  F.  MILLER  & SONS 

The  First  Choice  of  the  Great  Pianists 

I BEHNING  & SON 

Endorsed  by  Eminent  Musicians  of  this  and  other 
Countries 

STULTZ  k BAUER 

Beautiful  in  Tone  and  Action,  and  Durable 

KURTZMANN  & GO. 

Elegant  Cases,  Medium  Price,  Fully  Warranted 


STANDARD  REED  PIPE 

Guaranteed  to  Produce  the  Tone  and  Effect  of  Pipe 
Organs  of  double  the  price 

FARRAND  & VOTEY 

Contain  more  Improvements  than  any  other  Reed  ( 
Instrument 

WILGOX  & WHITE 

Largest  Capital,  Largest  Factory,  Greatest  Variety 
of  Styles 


Our  Prices  are  the  lowest  consistent  with  quality  and  durability;  our  terms 
the  most  liberal;  our  assortment  the  largest,  and  the  established 
reputation  of  the  house  makes  our  guarantee  an 
absolute  protection  to  customers 


SAN  JOSE  BRANGH,  40  WEST  SANTA  GLARA  ST. 

In  Charge  of  MRS.  L.  A RODERICK 


UNION  IRON  WORKS 


Office:  cor.  ist  ai?d  /Hissioi?  U/orl^s:  potr<?ro 


BUIUDEJ^S  OF  TflE 

Great  Donje  and  Elevating  FInor 

FOR  THE  LICK  OBSERVATORY 


ONLY  IRON  * STEEL  SHIP  BUILDERS 

ON  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 


flOCU  BUTLtDIJIG  FOH  THE  U.  S.  H^VY 

The  Cruisers  “Charleston”  and  “San  Francisco" 


HYDRAULIC  DRY  DOCK 

450  F“ eet  Long  66  Feet  Wide 


Designers  and  Builders 

OF  ALL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 


ONION  IRON  WORKS 


Turkish,  Russian,  Electric  and 

/dedicated 

BATH  HOUSE 

IN  CALIFORNIA 


FOR  MALES  AND  FEMALES 


218  POST  STREET 

San  Francisco 


OPEN  DAY  AND  NIGHT 


Best  attendants  and  appliances  and  patronized 
by  the  Elite. 


Sii}<5le  Batl?,  $1.00 


Six  Tickets,  $5.00 


TOURISTS? 


A glanee  at  the  folloming  list  will  shorn 
that  all  PhEASU^E  and  TOURIST  RESORTS 
of  importance  in  California  are  loeated  di- 
reetly  on  the  lines  of  the 

^cutlqcrr  pacific  |§oiripany 

Yosemite  Valley;  Tahoe  and  Donner  Lakes;  The  Geysers; 
Big;  Trees;  Mts.  Shasta , Hamilton  and  Diablo;  McCloud 
and  Pitt  Rivers  ; Napa  Soda,  Paraiso,  Alina  and 
Paso  Robles  Springs;  Monterey,  Hotel  del 
Monte,  Pacific  Grove,  Santa  Cruz, 

Santa  Barbara,  Long  Beach, 

Santa  Monica,  Los  An- 
geles, Sierra  Madre 
Villa,  Riverside, 

San  Jose, 

Etc, 

Excursions  arc  run  during  Tourist  Season  to 
prominent  points  at  Special  Reduced  Rates. 

Pullman  Palace  Sleeping  Cars  and  Elegant  Passenger 
Coaches.  

DA1LV  EXPRESS  TRAINS 

THROUGH  AND  LOCAL  TICKET  OFFICES: 

R13  MARKET  STREET  fij 3 

OAKLAND  FERRY  and  BALDWIN  HOTEL  ROTUNDA 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


TOURISTS! 

I I II  I I I j I I I I I I I I I I I I I > * (I  II  II  I HI  I I 19  I I I I I I I I M I I I S I 

I I n 1 1 mi  l l m i ■ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 n n mu  m 1 1 1 m 6i  1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 is  e> 


WILL  BE  CALLED  FOR  AND  DELIVERED  BY 


PRINCIPAL  OFFICE) : 

648  /nWT  street  , l56  St. 


LAUNDRY 

Thirteenth  Street,  between  Folsom  and  Howard 

San  Francisco,  Cal. 


All  ordinary  Mending,  Sewing  on  of  Buttons,  etc.,  free  of  Charge. 
Orders  may  be  left  at  Offices  or  Laundry,  or  a Postal  card, 
will  receive  prompt  attention. 


REnrCED  PRICES 


Shirts,  without  collars 10c.  each 

Nightshirts 10c.  “ 

Undershirts 10c.  “ 

Drawers 10c.  “ 

Ves  s and  Coats 15c.  “ 

Plain  Chemise 10c.  “ 

“ Night  Dresses 15c.  “ 

“ Skirts 15c.  “ 

“ Dresses • 25c.  “ 


Table  Cloths  [ordinarysize]— 10c. 


Pillow  Slii's, 

Starched..50c.  “ 5c. 


Pillow  Slips,  not  Starched  f 

Towels | At  the 

Handkerchiefs ! rate  of 

Hose | per  doz. 

Collars L 

Cape  Collars 35c.  per  doz. 

Cuffs 50c.  per  doz.  or  5c.  per  pair 

Blankets 50c.  per  pair 

Children’s  plain  starched 

pieces $1  per  doz. 

Children’s  plain  pieces,  not 

starched  50c.  per  doz.  or  5c.  each 
SINGLE  SMALL  PIECES,  5c.  “ 


These  Prices  apply  only  to  plain  pieces.  Goods  requiring  extra 
time  and  labor  will  be  charged  accordingly. 


Open  from  7 A.  M.  to  9 P.  M.  Saturdays,  10  P.  M. 


/Hapufaeturii^  Department 


Bookbinding,  Lithographing,  and  Engraving; 

New  Type,  New  Machinery.  The  popu- 
lar place  for  prompt  and 

Artistic  Work 

-'o  ■ — 

Books  printed  and  Published  for  authors; 
Briefs,  Pamphlets  and  Catalogues,  Isabels  and 
all  kinds  of  Color  Printing,  Cards,  Bill-heads, 
Circulars,  and  every  description  of  Commer- 
cial Work,  Blank  forms  for  faw,  Real  Instate, 
County  and  Election  purposes;  Blank  Books 
made  to  order  for  Merchants,  Bankers,  and 
County  Officers;  Blanks  printed  to  order; 

Check  Books,  Bonds 

and  Stock  Certificates 

Office  and  Counting-house  Stationery; 
Outfits  for  Banks  and  Corporations;  Map 
Making  and  Mounting;  Calendars  made  to 
order.  Type-writing  Stock  and  Furniture; 
Type-writing  Machines,  Type-writing  Desk: 
and  Tables;  Type-writing  Paper  and  Ink. 

lB^eroff  (^orpp2\r^ 

HISTORY  BUILDING 

721  Market  St.,  San  Francisco 


gpir?tiragf#~ 


1 M 


wMwMi, 

Wmmm. 


S 

l«i« 


ilpfil 

imis 


rtiiiai’Sl 

. 

. • • /:  . , -'-•  B 


